Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Sanded, washed, and taped.  The outside of the boat is ready for primer.  My plan is to get two back-to-back coats of primer on in one night, and then remove the masking tape.  Once the primer is fully dry, I'll tape the boat again and apply the epoxy paint.  The last thing I want right now is a struggle getting the masking tape off.

Guy,

Among other things, my memory is failing me.  What color did we finally decide on.  BTW good choice.

Dorf.

Just an FYI. The blue tape will bleed and you won't get the tight lines you are looking for. U need to buy the expensive tape for that.

And old sign painters trick...
Before you hit the side with primer, take a blush and lightly brush the tape edges with a clear coat.. Spar. will work fine. Once it dries its sealed the edge and any bleed is clear. You will get nice tight lines

Chris,

Thanks for the advice.  That sounds like a good technique for taping.  I taped over the edges of the varnished chine caps and outer rails.  I'm kind of in the "get-her-done" mode right now and will live with a little bleed-through.  And considering my job varnishing, nobody will notice the paint.  : )

Guy

Chris,

You were absolutely correct about the blue tape; it did bleed some.  Your idea of clear coating over the tape would have been a better way to go, especially if I had not painted white over white (paint over primer).  Had I done, for example, blue over white, I'm sure I'd have intermittent white patches along the edges.  Thanks,

Guy

First coat of primer!  The final coats of epoxy paint will also be white.

First coat (previous picture) of primer was applied with a brush and the second coat (this picture) with a foam roller.  The second coat of primer really covered well.  This picture pretty much shows how the boat is going to look as I am painting it white anyway. 

Taped again and ready for the epoxy paint.  I hope to paint tomorrow.

Looking REALLY nice!

So nice.....   Hope to make one of my own.

Thanks Vance and Thanks Mike!

Not that you can tell by looking, but in this picture the boat has three coats of epoxy paint over two coats of epoxy primer. Tomorrow I plan to attach the stainless steel rub rails to the chine caps, and maybe give half of the floor a coat of varnish.

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