A friends boat.we flipped the boat thinking a coat of epoxy and graphite but after looking at it the chines are worn down in the middle of the boat.

theres nails every 3" one in the chine and one in the floor.any tips on how to remove the chine and get the nails out?i've done the search thing and didn't find exactly what i was looking for.

this is also bad timing as i'm trying to get my build on the water for the up coming fall season,my friend is not so wood working savy so any tips on other easy fixes?could we just epoxy and graphite up around the chines stopping just before the round over on the top side? could the chine still be removed at a later date with the goo applied?

heres a pic of the bottom,the blue is just some paint he applied years ago.

 

 

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a little more info ,its a framed boat.also after some sanding the nails appear to be copper.

so do you just get a chisel and hammer and pryoff the chines after the nails are removed?we can't tell forsure but was it commen practice to only nail from the bottom or could there be other nails that we can't see?

thanks,

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Tungsten, I recently thought that I had to remove some silicon bronze ring shank nails in my build. The ring shanks resist removal. However I found that a kitten's paw tool could be modified to solve my problem. They are used to remove molding in houses and as such are very thin but broad at the tip. I have included a link to a picture of one. 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61J91E72C7L._SL500_AA300_.gif

I took my tool to my grinder and sharpened the edge. I then placed it between the frame and the side panel. A couple of taps on the hammer and the shank of the nail was severed. I wasn't worried about removed the embedded shank, all I needed to do was break the connection. It worked great.

I would suggest that from the pictures you provided that chine is pretty badly worn. White Oak, Ash, Mahogany, perhaps even Douglas fir could be cut to make a set of new chines. Oil them down, caulk behind them with a polysulfide caulk, Boat Life life caulk is one, 3M 101 is another. Then get a counter sink drill bit size 8 see picture here: http://s1.img-b.com/build.com/imagebase/resized/330x320/dewaltimage...

While you are out get some #8 1" to 1 1/4" stainless steel flat head screws. The Tatman build instructions call for holes 2" apart if I remember right. When I go back out to the shop I will check. Adjust the drill bit so the hole won't be as deep as the screw is long and then drill just deep enough so that the screw head will be flush.

I am just mounting the inner chine log on my boat and each time I place a screw I put a little BoatLife on it. A little Acetone and a scraper will remove the excess. You may have to devise a clamp or strap system to get the first few screws installed. I would bet that working from the center out will work best. Trim the ends, give it another coat of oil and go boating. The next time the chine gets damaged then a screw driver will make quick work of the job. The polysulfide caulk is not an adhesive but remains flexible so the chine can be removed. I just had to remove an inner chine log that had been Boat Life'd and is simple.

I will be posting some pictures later tonight on the inner chine log process.

Rick Newman

thanks for the help Rick,so your saying the nails need to be cut?i have a multi tool, vibrator i call it.should work well with a flat blade.i can put some tape on the blade so i only go deep enough to cut the nail.do you just leave the remaining nail in ?

my concern is not so much replacing, its getting the old one out without further damage.

 

 

I would be surprised if the nails are really copper, it is commonly too soft to pound in but can be used with a rove and then have the head peened over. So I would bet they are brass or silicon bronze, In either case if you are drilling a hole for a new screw the metal will be soft enough to be drilled through. If you really want to avoid hitting a nail lay a strip of masking tape and mark the approximate location.

I think your buddy has a nice boat and you guys are doing a great thing to repair it.

Rick Newman

yes your right,brass or bronze.

being a kitchen guy all i see is brad nails,cant remember the last time i pounded a nail in with a hammer!

 

cheers Mike..

Hello Tungsten, Sanderson and I use silicon bronze ring nails often on the chine. When we need to remove the chine we cut it off with a jig saw (reciprocating saw) with a fine blade. The blade should not be a blade for metal but should be much more fine than a traditional rough wood blade.  The hard oak chine works well with the fine blade and the bronze nails cut through as easy as the oak.


You need to use a guide fitted to the outside edge of the chine to keep the saw on a even path.  Angle the base so it matches the most flared part of the boat.  Leave 1/16 or even an 1/8 of an inch of the chine so you protect the side panel.  Once you have removed the chine sand what is left to match the side panel with 40 grit on a belt sander. 


This method takes us about 20 minutes a side and it works even if the chine was bedded with 3M 5200.

Awesome!thanks Randy.I new there was a "power tool"way to doit.

 

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