Rapid Robert

Finally decided on building a 14' Rapid Robert.  I sure like the beauty of a 16' double ender, but there is no question in my mind the Rapid Robert will better suit my needs and will be a better fit for the rivers I will be fishing.  After a couple weeks searching, I have found some really nice CVG Fir.  It's 5/4 rough sawed and pricey, but I have a thickness planer in my shop.  Also found some quartersawn white oak for the rails also pricey and rough sawed.

I could use some help figuring the amount of fir to order if anyone is willing.  What I have found is in the rough 5/4x6-16'.  They actually measure around 5-7/8".  I will be using fir for all the frames, seat framing, and floor boards.  I could save some money and plane down some western cedar for the floor boards.  Thinking 4 pc 5/4x6-16 might be enough if it is straight.  The 5-7/8 width is going to cut it close.  The plans call for the bottom frame to be 3" and the side frame legs taper from 2-1/2".  

Views: 683

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 23, 2016 at 7:54pm

Kerf sawn white oak has a nice straight grain and bends nicer than quarter sawn, but costs a little more

Permalink Reply by CWarmouth on June 24, 2016 at 6:08am

I bet you'll be the only guy in Alabama to ever build one. What about the RR design has you favoring it over the DE with transom? Is it the ability to handle a motor better?

I have only rowed one RR. A guy built one and wanted me to guide him in it on the Hiwassee on it's maiden voyage. It looked like a piece of furniture and there was no way I was going to take another guys perfect boat through the stairsteps on its first dip in the water. I did take him down the lower end from Hiwassee Outfitters to 411.

Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on June 24, 2016 at 7:39am

I think the Rapid Robert just fits the water I will be fishing much better.  The Caney Fork will be where I fish most, so carrying a motor and being able to move back up river will be a big plus.  Not so much to eliminate a shuttle.  I was up there last week and got on the water after they generated from 8-9am.  Put in at the dam and fished falling water all morning.  We probably caught 40 or so fish from the dam down to the power lines.  I lost a really good rainbow at the boat.  It got hot and the sun came out and really slowed down after lunch.  They generated from 4-5 and we pulled up on the bank until the water started down.  Fished the last couple miles to Happy Hollow and didn't catch any fish.  The water really didn't get down enough until almost dark.  If we had been able to motor back up to the dam and fish after the generation, I think we would have had a good afternoon.  The ability to motor back up a river and fish a stretch a second time is a nice option on these tailraces I fish.

Permalink Reply by CWarmouth on June 25, 2016 at 7:28am

Sounds like a good plan. Looking forward to seeing her get built.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 25, 2016 at 3:09pm

Thats rift sawn, not kerf, on the oak, not sure what I was thinking. I got all my DF, came finish sanded 4 sides, clear wood, very nice grain, 1x4 was $1.30 LF., but the 1x8 was $5.06 LF. Bad part is its a hair under 3/4", but sure is nice to work with and cut down alot of planing and sawing time.

Cost me around $200 to make full floor boards

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 25, 2016 at 3:50pm

Shute ran out of time to edit.

Heres rift sawn white oak on the seat bench frt cross pc (grain)

rift, inside/outside rails (grain)

1/4 sawn, frt knee brace board (grain)

1/4 sawn,cross pc rear seat (grain)

Heres that pretty DF on the floorboards and frames.

Thats gonna be a really nice boat for you. Years back I used my jon boat in rivers, with the anchor off the frt, current swept under the boat nice, the transom caused serious push turned around, and no back rowing, but having the 4 hp motor was a really nice thing.

Figuring your wood, draw your parts out on graph paper, makes it really easy.

Looking forward to watching your build.

Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on June 27, 2016 at 8:36am

There is no question rift sawn would be best, but I haven't been able to find any down here.  Your pics of the quarter sawn appear to be plain sawn lumber to me.  I'd have to see the end grain to be sure, but I stock plain sawn oak with better grain orientation.  You did a really nice job on your boat.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 27, 2016 at 2:13pm

Ya, thats what they sold me. If you look at the knee board, thres some decent grain along the bottom, but would be tough and costly to try to pick out parts of boards to use. When you start your build, start a new build thread so I dont muck it up posting jiberish and pics :)  I`ll just do uuuhs and ahhhs!!!

Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on June 27, 2016 at 8:03pm

I'll start a build thread, but don't hesitate to offer advice.  You won't muck it up.  lol  I found some rift sawn white oak today.  Right after I read your post, a customer who builds furniture and custom entry doors came in my store.  I had the lumber on my mind and asked him if he knew any suppliers.  He told me about a place about 50 miles from me and I called.  They didn't have the fir or oak in stock, but had both at their branch in Atlanta, GA.  They are getting it for me Friday and will ship it to me next week.  It was less than a dollar a bd ft higher than the quarter sawn.  So, you already helped.

Permalink Reply by David Witton on June 28, 2016 at 6:19am

During my build, I needed to order all of wood from out of town suppliers. I've been working with wood for a while, so I'm familiar with estimating, but wanted to be fairly tight on my orders because of the cost. What I found was that as I was getting to the end of the build I had a tough time coming up with the little pieces I needed for some of the detail work, like hatch covers. When building the floorboards I came up short of meranti, ordered more from the same supplier and got a completely different looking species, as you can see from this picture. 

So my advise is to get a bit more than you think you'll need

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 28, 2016 at 5:55pm

same thing happened to me too, I have very different looking wood on the top rails on both sides that I had to scarf together of all places. It bothered me for a while but I`m over it :)

Permalink Reply by dreu patterson on July 6, 2016 at 2:14pm

I used batu 5 quarterx6.decking that looks similar to mahogany but hard as a rock.I stood the material on edge and cut it in 2 thin pieces.re-sawing I think it's called.end product was 5/16" x 6.Thin but plenty strong.I tried to use r wood but too weak.still cost about 200$.I got it locally and it all matched

RSS

© 2024   Created by Randy Dersham.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service