Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Scarfing, Steaming & Cutting
A little confused on which should be done first.
My end result is a stick of lumber that is: 1 x 3 x 18
My plan is to take two 2x4x10's and scarf first, then trim to the correct dimensions, then steam them before bending.
Should I be concerned about the epoxy holding the scarf joint during the steaming/bending process?
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on
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Ronald: The epoxy will never hold together in a steambox. Try a sample and see if it holds up.
Good Luck
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Do you just skip the steambox completely then....?
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Ronald:What are you using the 1x3x18 for? If chines or gunwales I assume you will rip it into 1 1/2 x 18. If the grain is good- l8" of runout or better there is no need to steam the piece. - but depending on the species you might need 1 or2 buddies and lots of clamps and gloves to keep the epoxy off your hands.
Good Luck
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Both chines and gunwales - 18 feet was just a guesstimate since I will be scarfing 2 pieces of 10' lumber. Yes, the end result will be two pieces 1" x 1.5" x 18'.
Right now I am using Ash because it is readily available, and I have read that its water resistance is pretty decent. Plus, I really like the look of the finished wood.
In regards to the cutting, do you recommend scarfing the wood at the 3" width, and ripping it in half? Or ripping it, and then cutting it? My thought was to scarf first, and rip second - the reason being the wood is actually 3.5" wide and 1.5" thick, so if the scarf joint didn't line up "perfectly", I can just trim it to the perfect measurement - rather than ending up with a stick of wood that was 1" x 1.45"
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Ronald: Based on my experience and "failures" I would cut my stock to the dimentions required- say 3/4" thick and 1/1/2 wide- and then cut the scarfs for gluing. I have used a jig set up for 8/1 - run through the table saw, 10/1 or even 12/1 is really good. Leave the scarfs a little "rough cut" and not polished by blade burn. Wipe with acetone, lay on a coat of unthickened epoxy, recoat with unthickebnd epoxy- the end grain will soak it up and look "dull"- then hit it with a little glue thiacened witrh cabosil to the consistencey of stiff honey. Clamp both sections and then clamp ther scarf- not too much pressure to starve the joint. Let sit for atleasst a day and remopve clamps. Do all pieces and wait for a week orso before you start installing. IOf you do this on a flat workbench the sections will line up OK. Don't forget the waxpaper or you will glue the hiole mess to the bench
Good Luck
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Permalink Reply by Seamus Walsh on
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I haven't had a problem steaming glued up wood (epoxy). I would dimension, scarf, sand, steam. You may only need to steam in the bend at the stem. If you are worried about the glue leave the scarf out of the box and plug the end with towels. I used 3/4 x 2 1/4 cherry for my chines and didn't have a problem, same for my 3/4 x 2 purpleheart gunwhales. good luck.
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Seamus: I am interested in hearing more about your steaming and bending epoxy joints. The reason I was doubtful as to an epoxy joint holding up in a steambox is the methods used to clean up epoxy drips on hulls. I use a heatgun set on low, warm the epoxy and it scrapes right off as a somewhat rubbery consistency- much easier and faster than sanding. Have also used the same method to remove an incorrectly instaslled plank on a glued lapstrake canoe. The next time I have the steambox fired up I will make a few joints, steam them and report back as to the results. Using cherry and purpleheart must make a beautiful looking boat- I presume you varnish or oil them.
Good Luck
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How long are you cooking your wood? I go about 25min on an air dried/ wetish 1/2" piece. Longer on kiln dried less on dead wet. I find it hard to believe that I get the wood temp more than 180. The trick is high volume steam, your wood should be dripping wet when it comes out. I will let you know how my 1/2 " x 2" black locust chine caps go. I am trying to get those in tomorrow.
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