Slightly stretching a Trapper

I've been keeping a eye on this forum, and Montana for a while, but got Roger Fletcher's excellent book a few weeks ago, and it has spurred me to action. I am a first time boat builder, but an experienced wood worker.  I have in mind a light and  versatile version of the Trapper, and after having considered a no epoxy version, am coming around to basically following Ray Heater's advice in a previous post - Oil inside, light epoxy on the bottom,  Occume sides, fir bottom.  I found some nice sitka spruce for the frames, and tight CVG fir 1x3 for the chines. I got the spruce planed down to 5/8, the frame pieces roughed out, and one frame made this afternoon. So if I'm crazy, tell me now. 


I scaled the plans in the book up to 1 1/2"= 1'-0, and in the process could not resist slipping in an extra 6" aft of station 5 in the original. That of course, got me thinking about moving frames.  Looking carefully at the Trapper pictures (pg 214-215), it looks to me like Woodie Hindman pushed the frames around to suit his seat locations.  Stations, and frame location seem pretty flexible to me: the 12' trapper has 7 frames a little less than 14" apart (through the center), the 14' Rapid Robert has 6 frames up to 24" apart, the 16' Bridges 9 frames 17-18" apart. So while I was at it, I dropped a frame. Overlaying the original, my variation looks in side elevation like the transom was pulled straight back 6". I like the lines of the Trapper, and tried to keep them as close as possible. The back third of the boat is roughly 5/8 wider, to get the same "lift". How do you describe (measure) rocker? I could reduce the rocker in the back a little by making the transom a little wider (and probably the previous frame or two), but not sure I want to. I checked the stem and transom bevels and they were within a degree or two of Roger's. Anything else I should look out for? 


[IMG]http://www.mlwebb.com/boat/a-P4060376.JPG[/IMG]

(don't know if the picture will work, the uploader was giving me trouble. If not see attachments)

Excuse the modelmaking, looks like hell, but it is dimensionally accurate. Measuring it, and eyeballing against the plan, it seems to match the drawing. 


For those who have built the trapper, I have some questions about seat locations and trim. - how would you do it differently.  Where do you run into problems. I am imagining two sets of oar blocks, one for solo, and one for two person use, with both seats adjustable (and reversable) details yet to be resolved. I am also thinking of a removable transom section for a Minn-Kota, (battery under rowing seat?) or small longshaft. I don't want to compromise the drift boat qualities for the motor, just want to putter around tidewater or the occasional lake.


Which brings me to a question about attaching to frames. I am thinking of supporting the flydeck with a diagonal brace from the transom trim to the last frame. Should this be a rigid connection or one with a little give? (and similarly, things mounted between side frames, like seat supports.  How much do these boats flex?, and is it a good thing or a bad thing? What breaks on a drift boat? Somewhere I read that you can either go light and flexible, or heavy and rigid. My uneducated guess is that the chief threat to the light and flexible route is bottom puncture, which I probably didn't help by dropping a frame - but I have some ideas (and questions) I will save for a bottom post. (I'll try and keep questions to appropriately titled posts, makes it a lot easier when searching a forum for an answer)


[IMG]http://www.mlwebb.com/boat/a-P4060380.JPG[/IMG] 


For someone venturing into boat building, I can't imagine, between Roger's book and this forum, what else a guy could want. Thanks for being here. 

Michael 


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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on May 15, 2010 at 8:31am
Hello ML. What I want is some time and money! Yes you are right Roger's book and this forum are excellent resource. While attending the Wooden Boat Show last year I took at least one picture of a removable transom, mush like what you are describing. Since the photo is on this site and not on this hard drive I will just tell you where to see it. Rick Newman's page, my photos, page 4, photo title 4 29 09 # 117. I believe that this boat came out of Woodrow's shop as it is loaded stern first on the trailer and I think I heard some folks mention the fact to. I think that Cyrus Happy and or Ray Heater built the boat.

Your planning process and model making is great to see. Keep up the good work and keep us informed on your progress.

Happy Waves to you,

Rick Newman
Permalink Reply by Dave Z on May 16, 2010 at 5:21am
It looks good.
I am not sure, and roger may be able to clarify but I believe the original boat builders made a frameless hull then fit frames to it.

You would be alright to custom make frames off your model to put them in places suited to your seat locations.
Permalink Reply by Troy Nicolls on May 17, 2010 at 8:14pm
I like the idea of moving frames around. I thought about it when I started building my trapper, but opted to go the easy route and just follow the plans. Speaking of plans...nice drawings. You obvoiusly are totally into this boat building. Funny, you are stretching your trapper. I'm chopping a couple inches off my square end, an Idea I got from some of Dave's comments.

I too am wondering, what normally breaks on a wood framed drift boat? Guess I may find outas I'm building a pretty light weight model.

Have fun with your project.
Troy
Permalink Reply by mlwebb on May 18, 2010 at 1:09am
Thanks Gentlemen for the replies.
Rick, Nice series of photos, both years. I really appreciate the detail shots, lots of food for thought. That transom is something. Looks like a Rouge boat.
On further thought, an outboard probably requires more complication (due to transom flare mainly) than I want, but the electric seems feasible, maybe a "rapid robert" style removable piece (possibly wider, the top six inches or so of the transom between transom interior side frames could lift up and off, providing I provide enough left to tie the gunwales securely.)
Troy, I enjoy the whole d.i.y internet thing, beats TV. In the last few years I have built some killer home theater speakers, learned a lot about fly-tying, done some rodbuilding Keeps me outta trouble :) But I have wanted to build a boat for a long time.
I think a thread on "What Breaks?, Drift Boat battle wear and wounds" would be interesting.
Michael
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on May 18, 2010 at 6:17am
Micheal, thanks for the comments. I enjoy the details and taking pictures. I have finally found a place to share a few of them with people that also appreciate them.

Happy Waves to You,
Rick Newman
Permalink Reply by Dave Z on May 18, 2010 at 5:55am
What breaks-

1. We broke a bottom frame member once after a particularily bad hit. right under the front seat.
2. saw a seat frame member broken. dude was too heavy and th equality of the wood was not right. probably not the norm.
3. side panel impacts, floor impacts.
4. chine battens- if you leave them bare wood like mine, they will eventually get ripped up. alot of guys put aluminum caps or UMHW caps on.
5. Oarlocks- never happened to me, but I've read and seen pics of horror stories.
6. Orlock blocks
7. Oars

I'd say the most common on a framed boat is floor impacts and broken frame members.

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