Trailer Drawings

Just wanted to share the trailer drawings I mentioned a while back.  Might be useful to someone who is looking to build one from scratch.  The drawings are not complete as there is no tongue, lights, or axle/wheels.  But, the most difficult part of building a trailer is making decisions on overall size, etc. 

We have also made some separate detail drawings of the flip-down trailer stand we are showing attached in the drawings.

The measurements for this drawings came directly from my drift boat trailer, which is a manufactured trailer, but I do not know the maker.  Please shoot any questions you might have as it would be fun to work through them with my students. 

More to follow as we detail out the drawings.

First is a rendering, should show on your screen.  Then, two drawings (one with dimensions in .pdf form)

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.iso.pdf

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.pdf

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Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 13, 2013 at 2:38pm

Thanks Tom,what about vertical welding with the 7018.Same thing can I just drag it upwards?

I did grade 10 welding but that was um.. ya a while ago lol!I'm right handed so do I weld left to right or do I push the puddle right to left?

Thanks again.

 

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 13, 2013 at 3:19pm

Basically yes you could, but,  I would weld 'up' (from bottom to top), with the rod angled slight upwards at the tip (in other words, hand below tip of rod and weld pool) when going vertical.  You will probably find that doing so will create a nicer bead as you are directing heat up ahead of the bead.

If you're welding a fillet weld between to faces at 90, you will have to 'weave' back and forth between the two faces, pausing long enough on both sides to let the puddle form and melt into the base metal.

Another couple points about 7018:  It is a DC rod, and most home-type stick welders are AC welders.  Check yours to find out.  If it is only AC, then you need to ask for 7018AC rods, which are different.

7018 is a low-hydrogen flux, and therefore is sensitive to moisture.  Pros keep them in a rod oven at 250deg.  I never have, and just keep them away from moisture wrapped tightly in the plastic bag, or sealed plastic storage case.  If you suspect that they have taken on any moisture, you can just bake them in the oven. 

Do some searching on YouTube, or a great site called 'weldingtipsandtricks.com' for some great tips and videos.

Have fun with it, you'll do fine.

Let's see some pictures of those practice welds.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 13, 2013 at 3:40pm

Thanks again Tom.

Permalink Reply by Andrew on April 13, 2013 at 5:56pm

Mike, 

I found this guys videos to be good when I was considering welding my own trailer. 

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 14, 2013 at 12:51pm

Broke out the buzz box after getting some 7018AC and doing some reading on the tube.

Thanks for the links guys,

first crack at vertical.

trying the Z motion,what ya think Tom? 1/8 steel 3/32 rod set at 75.

 

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 14, 2013 at 1:24pm

Tungsten, was this a smple that you can either try to break apart or cut so you can see the amount of penertration you achieved? That will be the key to the strngth of the weld. In one of my past jobs I sold high end maintenance welding supplies from cronatron Welding. I was fortunate to learn alot from the schools they put us through. Appearance is one thing but strength is the bottom line/

Rick N

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 14, 2013 at 1:31pm

Good point Rick,I can see the penetration as i'm welding so I think i'm good.I need to do a lot more practice on these vertical ones.The 7018 on the flat makes some nice welds so I know half the joints on the trailer will be good.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 14, 2013 at 3:59pm

If you can do a test to destruction that will also tell you a great deal. Just like testing scarf and such. Where did it stick, where did it fail.

Can you turn the trailer on it's side? Less vertical welds that way.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 14, 2013 at 4:39pm

Playing around a little more with the vertical welds,if I hold or pause just a little longer on the Z stoke the weld fills more and lays over more evenly.

Ya Rick I can see tilting the trailer to avoid the up hill stuff but it has to be tacked well enough not to move. I was just gonna make a jig on my bench to hold everthing square.Maybe tack all the corners first then do some of the flat flip over repeat then maybe I can lay on its side.Welding the inside of a corner on the flat has to be the easiest weld to do.

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 14, 2013 at 5:10pm

Tungsten . . . you'll get the hang of it.  Judging by the photo, I think you are correct in that you should try holding a little longer on each side, and 'zigging' across somewhat quickly . Probably need to progress up along the path of the bead a little slower to get the sides to burn in nicely.  Just watch the weld puddle when you pause on the side, and wait for it to 'fill in' and then move across and up one electrode width.

I too cheat as much as possible and will always wrestle things to the point where I can weld in the flat position if at all possible. 

Tom

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 14, 2013 at 8:08pm

Thinking back the last time I've arc welded I don't think I had internet.I've always used my mig for projects and just avoided doing anything like a trailer.

With the right rod and some Internet help this might just work.Some other questions if you don't mind.

Looking at the plans,where the joints come together at the front you have 3 tubes ,are the red lines the way the pieces should be cut?Or is this just the way the drawing went?Also what about the butt joint where the tongue 3x3 meets the other 3x3.is there a special way you cut the longer piece? not sure what its called.

 

thanks,

Permalink Reply by Vance Wonser on April 15, 2013 at 9:36am

Tungsten, I'm in the same boat!

I just picked up a used Hobart Handler 150 MIG machine.  Haven't been able to try it yet because I need to install an outlet in the garage 1st (its 230volt).

I did just 1 weld with my little Century wire weldera year ago to repair a broken weld on the spring shackel on a trailer.  1st weld in probably 10 yrs (1st with a wire machine in probably close to 20).  It held but it was butt ugly & I doubt it will hold long.  I thought that little machine was 110amp but after looking it's only about 80 (bought it used 15 yrs ago & had never used it!) so it was a bit light for 1/8th.  This new machine should work great for any trailer stuff.  For now it will be .035 flux core wire.  getting started with an argon tank here will be at least $250.  (for a small one), so argon will have to waitunless I find a used tank.

The (re)learning should be fun & it will be nice to be able to make quality repairs/mods & maybe build the next trailer from scratch.

 

Hope you are going to treat us to a photo build-a-long!

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