Trailer Drawings

Just wanted to share the trailer drawings I mentioned a while back.  Might be useful to someone who is looking to build one from scratch.  The drawings are not complete as there is no tongue, lights, or axle/wheels.  But, the most difficult part of building a trailer is making decisions on overall size, etc. 

We have also made some separate detail drawings of the flip-down trailer stand we are showing attached in the drawings.

The measurements for this drawings came directly from my drift boat trailer, which is a manufactured trailer, but I do not know the maker.  Please shoot any questions you might have as it would be fun to work through them with my students. 

More to follow as we detail out the drawings.

First is a rendering, should show on your screen.  Then, two drawings (one with dimensions in .pdf form)

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.iso.pdf

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.pdf

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Permalink Reply by Vance Wonser on March 23, 2013 at 10:11pm

There is something to be said for the new magnetic base lights that never make it into the water & can be stored in a dry enviroment.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 24, 2013 at 9:26am

I  have a set of those too. However when your 7 to 5 adapter is bad they won't work either! They are pretty darn handy. I am going to explore LED lights to retro fit.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by tungsten on March 25, 2013 at 5:39am

My last boat had the magnetic lights,worked well, the wires were always inside the boat.When I start to have problems with the new trailer I'll switch back.

Permalink Reply by Andrew on April 12, 2013 at 1:17pm

Tom, 

I thought you might want to see your trailer plan in the flesh. 

You wouldn't happen to have any details about the trailer roller tabs would your?

You better get those kids working on that.

Cheers,

Andrew 

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 13, 2013 at 6:11am

Looks good Andrew,did you use the 3x2 and 3x3 as per the plans?

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 13, 2013 at 6:18am

A question for the welders,i see the plan calls for .120 so just under an 1/8".Would a 110V hobby mig with gas be able to weld this up?

Thanks,

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 13, 2013 at 10:57am

You have to be careful with the consumer-grade 'hobby' welders, as they will tell you that you can weld much thicker than what is really acceptable for structural welding.

However, a rule of thumb commonly used is that you need 1amp per .001" thickness of material to adequately melt the base metal (for wire-feed MIG (GMAW) welding).  So, if your machine is a 120A-rated machine or better, then you should be fine.

Also, with proper preparation and weld design, you can use multiple passes to weld with an 'under-rated' welder.

Tom

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 13, 2013 at 10:54am

Hey that looks great Andrew! I'm kind of envious.  I'll have to show this to the kids.

We actually did design out the tabs and roller for the back.  I won't be back into the lab until Monday, but sure can get you a closeup of the plan then.  Basically, I would use a roller-end type bearing matched to the inside diameter of some galavnized pipe of your choice.  Most of this you can get at farm supply stores locally, or good hardware suppliers.  If you can wait until Monday, I'll get you a closeup view. 

Thanks for sharing.

Tom

Permalink Reply by Andrew on April 13, 2013 at 11:14am

The tabs should not be too much for my welder to figure out.  I sent him a picture from driftboattrailers.com as an example. 

Like this:

I dont know how far he got on the hangers, so it the ones that your crew designed are different I will ask him to use those. 

Andrew

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 13, 2013 at 1:05pm

Thanks Tom,I had a look at my 115V welder ,best I can see is 88amp.Chart on the inside of lid says I should use gasless type wire .035" and multiple passes for 10 gauge metal.

 

Too bad as I like welding with it,very easy.I also have a 225amp stick welder.I always have a hard time getting an arch it  always sticks.What would you recommend for welding rods? for the .125 2x3 metal

thanks,

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 13, 2013 at 1:37pm

That sounds about right.  The .035" gasless wire is referred to as 'flux-core' and there is a actual flux in the center of the wire that does the job of shielding the molten-metal weld pool that the gas mix would normally do when MIG (GMAW) welding.

Your stick welder will do a great job, and is really the perfect tool.  In my humble opinion, the easiest electrode (rod) to stick weld with is 7018.  Some might argue that there are downsides to using it (it doesn't penetrate as deep as the more common 6010 and 6011 rods), but should be great for your application. 

The nice thing about 7018 is that some refer to it as 'drag rod' because the flux coating on it is quite thick, and you can almost just lay the rod right on the metal and drag it along.  Also, you do not need to 'weave' or 'whip' it, just move along in a straight line.  It makes a really nice bead all on its own. 

Give it a try.  I specifically do not let my students use 7018 until they've really got the hang of welding, because it's too easy, and then they won't want to use 6011 . . . hah.  I keep the 7018 locked up in a separate cabinet.

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 13, 2013 at 1:25pm

Andrew,

Those are perfect.  I think we were modeling ours after those exact ones.  In fact, he builds his rollers just like I would.   Finding the right bearings can be a little tricky, but shouldn't be too hard.  I'm sure your guy can make the tabs up no problem.

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