Tags:
Scott: Looks like you are in a tough spot. Probably the red oak and birch are the cabinet grade stuff we see in the usual big box stores. What I have used for desks, shelving, etc. Has internal cores of cheaper wood like poplar with a thin skin of oak,birch, I would not consider using this stuff since one good hit can damage the skin and let moisture into the core. Also these cores are 1 or 2 plys and trying to bend this might be difficult and the cores may have some big voids. Take a look at the SYP- Check out each edge of the sheet to see if it has any visible voids- this is where you get failures when bending. If the sheets have odd number of plys it might be OK and each ply is the same thickness. Since you will "glass" the hull footballs are OK as long as there are not too many of them. This exterior grade SYP has waterproof glues and are fine . Others here on the site might have better advice.
Good
The type of hull you are building might also develop problems. David Z's prams appear to have moderate bends but the Peapod I built has severe bends. Keep us posted as to your progress. I have used some DF PW with small voids to build a simple flatbottom skiff by cutting out the panel and then gluing "slivers" into the visible voids.
\
I completely forgot to mention the type of boat I'm planning on building. I finally decided on the Mackenzie double ender with a transom from Fletcher's book. The sides have some decent bend, but nothing crazy. Like I said, I'm going to keep digging since this a project I've wanted to do for several years. Thanks again, Lawrence.
The issue with non-marine-grade plywood is it may have voids within it and that the glue holding it together may fail when subjected to moisture. I understand that you are planning on coating your materials with epoxy. Any intrusion, hole, dent, screw, nail or exposed edge that looses its coating or allows moisture to enter the plywood may allow the plywood to fail. When you spend $3,000 or so on your boat you probably want to avoid having the foundation, the plywood fail. While $100 a sheet is expensive a $60 sheet of plywood that may fail isn't a bargain. I understand your issue, it took me four years to scrape together the money to build my boat, buying things as I could afford them. The end result was worth the time and effort and I plan on my boat lasting a long time.
Here is an online source to help locate wood: http://www.woodfinder.com/
Rick Newman
Thanks, Rick. I completely agree with what you said. I'm not willing to use sub-par wood for the same reasons that you stated. I know this will be a labor of love, and I would hate to have it ruined by using the wrong materials.
Good news! A local friend of mine who does a lot of woodwork directed me to a specialty supplier. The best part, is that the price is pretty decent, about $60/sheet for marine grade plywood. The first hurdle has been jumped, and now I feel better about ordering the plans and actually beginning the work. It will be a little while before I can, but at least I know I'll have access to the right supplies. Thanks for the advice.
Scott: I too live in Alabama. I live in the Florence area in the northwest part of the state and share your problems with locating a source of marine plywood and lumber. Would you care to share the source that you have found. Thanks
I can get all the marine and Meranti plywood that I want in GA (cheap too)... let's build some boats guys. I have the plans. My friend has TONS of dried cypress and white oak lumber.
Thank you Scott, I will give them a call. Yes you are correct Franklin TN is a easy drive for me.
© 2024 Created by Randy Dersham. Powered by