Why not Red Oak

I am almost ready to do the chine caps gunnels and rub rails on my rapid robert.  White oak is avalible ( special order , expensive )  But I have red oak avalible easily and cheaply.  Why not use the Red Oak? 

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 12, 2011 at 9:56pm

Ben make your, isn't a budget just something to be broken. Just have your kids pay it off! It seems to work for or government. Sounds like you will be making money soon anyway.  Keep smiling, sanding and painting.

 

Happy Waves to you;

 

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on April 13, 2011 at 8:52am
I am the kids that will be paying it off! Plus working as a guide in colorado does not bring home big money. I could make more money building another boat and selling it then I do all summer...hmmm...
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 13, 2011 at 9:03am

Ben,  when I was a river guide I figured out I made 25 cents an hour. But it was great work and the experiences can't be replaced for $1,000 an hour! I also was the kids that was paying off my broken budget, now mine are 17 and 19. My son is now helping me build our drift boat, it is great to work with him.

 

Pictures soon.

 

Regards,

 

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on April 13, 2011 at 11:02am
.25 sounds about right. I wouldnt trade it for anything!
Permalink Reply by eric stevens on April 13, 2011 at 11:17am
i used it one time and i wont ever use it again, epoxy does not stick very well to it and it cracks way too easy when bent. Red oak is what you use if you want cabinents that look like they are from 1993.
Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on April 13, 2011 at 2:43pm

Eric:  Red oak is fine for "interior" projects  has to many open "pores" that allow water to enter the wood.  To epoxy white oak- as I have done many times making laminated stems for boats.

1. Cut the wood a little "rough" or sand it with 80 grit

2. If possible- steam bend it to shape

3. Wipe it down with acetone

4Let a coat (on each surface) of unthickened epoxy soak in before applying "thickened" epoxy

5. Limit the grain runout to 12 inches or more

Works for me- Good Luck

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 13, 2011 at 2:58pm
...cabinets from 1993.  thats pretty funny.
Permalink Reply by justin nicola on April 13, 2011 at 4:56pm
i got white oak (finished 4/4, but rough edges) for about $3.50 a board foot.  i got it from a hardwood specialist here in charleston.  i buy red oak all the time for building thresholds and cabinets, its not that much cheaper.  when i buy it in 1x4 etc, it actually costs MORE than the rough edge white oak.   if you have the tools to build a boat, you have the tools to mill semi-rough hardwoods, and you can save yourself a ton of money.  easiest way to find the cheapest wood around?  break out the yellowpages, call the three cabinet makers w/ the biggest ads, and ask them where they buy their wood.  hope this helps, i feel for you guys w/ the red, id be livid in your shoes...
Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 13, 2011 at 5:03pm

Echo what he said-  buy your wood from as close to the source as you can- find a sawmill.  I drive 3 hours for fir and plywood, but it's worth it to me.  I drive 1 hour to the sawmill and can get nearly anything I want.

Find a sawmill that sells or makes hardwood flooring. Let them know what you are doing, even if they are a wholesale only shop.  often times those guys will take an interest and help you out.  They will upcharge slightly and make a little $$ on you too, but still less than LOWES.

 

I bought 20 pieces of white oak for my current builds-16- 18' continuous lengths (not scarfed) finished on faces, 5/8" x2" for 1.10 bf.  Unheard of price.  I should have filled my shop with it.

 

 

Permalink Reply by justin nicola on April 13, 2011 at 5:14pm

yes you should have dave.  i once paid a guy who was demoing an historic house $100 to let me load my truck w/ antique heart pine, i still have some in my shop waiting for the right project.

Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on April 13, 2011 at 9:08pm

I wish I could find that kind of deal. But now that I know once I find a place with a bunch of white oak im buying it all! Never hurts to have it around. I made some good looking handles yesterday... out of red, oh well.

 

I through a small piece of my red oak into a cup and came back hours later, no color change. But I was able to easly blow through the end grains. LOTS of space for water to get in. Ill let you all know how the experiment continues, Its like science class all over again.

 

I think im going to seal the ends with epoxy and oil the heck out of the chine battens, that way they can dry easier then if they were painted. I know the color is going to change, but ill replace them this next winter... if im not building again :)

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 14, 2011 at 7:59am

Ben, your boat hasn't hit the water yet and I can tell you are already hooked. When you wrote "if im not building again :)" You have the disease!

 

Lay that test piece outside and look at it again in a few days. In the end the important thing is the journey, just think about what you have already learned, the skills you have acquired, the friends you have made, the knowledge you can pass on and the lifetime experiences this boat has already giver you.

Red Oak...Perhaps Expensive------------The Experiences....Priceless!

 

One of your new friends;

 

Rick Newman

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