Dave P
  • Male
  • Cedar City, UT
  • United States
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Dave P's Discussions

Low water Main

Does any one here know what the bottom limit is to run a dory or drift boat on the main Salmon?Received good input last year about the rogue, thanks~dpContinue

Started Jul 3, 2013

Rouge Flows
2 Replies

I am researching flows and wood boats for the Rouge. I have a permit in a few weeks and can't decide if I should take the raft or my 18 ft. Double ender Briggs style decked boat. The flows will be…Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Ben A. Hayes Aug 6, 2012.

Superply
5 Replies

Anyone have any thoughts or experience using a plywood called superply? It's listed as a marine ply with good number of plys. And the price is OK and close to where I live.Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Lawrence E. Long Feb 10, 2012.

Frame Angles & Bevels
10 Replies

I finally am getting around to starting on the 16 ft dbl w/transom, using Rodger's book for the plan.My question is concerning the measurement of the width of the side frame at top and bottom. The…Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Dave P Feb 7, 2012.

 

Dave P's Page

Latest Activity

Ben A. Hayes replied to Dave P's discussion Rouge Flows
"Dave, it's definitely doable at 2500 in a dory- I've taken an 18' alumaweld briggs boat down at that level, but after years of working down there it's probably more fun in a raft. As Robb says below, think about left at Slim…"
Aug 6, 2012
Robb Grubb replied to Dave P's discussion Rouge Flows
"Dave, Nice work on getting a Rogue permit, envious. 2500 cfs is kind of pushy in Mule Creek and Blossom but certainly do-able in a dory. I would pack light. Not sure if these words are wise or not, however based on previous experience: 1. Take 150…"
Aug 4, 2012
Dave P replied to Jim Rubino's discussion Southco Cam Levers
"Sounds like you found them. I got mine from allegiscorp.com."
Jun 26, 2012
Dave P replied to ray magnan's discussion update sitka spruce oars
"I made these 10 ft ash oars last year with the help of WBP. It just so happens that I tore into the 'spare' set yesterday to lighten them up. I really like the leathers and the smoothness in the lock. I had concerns that they might slip…"
Feb 24, 2012
Lawrence E. Long replied to Dave P's discussion Superply
"Rick is right about the voids problem . In bending one of my "pattern" planks to check the fit it snapped up near the stem.-There was a  void and the exterior skins were barely able to hold the pattern in one piece.  I…"
Feb 10, 2012
Dave P replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"Mike, you pointed out another mistake I was making. I assumed (yeah I know the acronym) it would be just cut a few angles on the saw and be done with it. Hummmmm... I don't know where my brain went to, but thanks to you and Rick and others,…"
Feb 7, 2012
Frank R replied to Dave P's discussion Superply
"Just checked it. You are right. The outer layers are just veneers. Fine for my pram but probably not suitable for anything bigger."
Feb 7, 2012
Lawrence E. Long replied to Dave P's discussion Superply
"Frank:  Check the number of plys.  Good PW will have 5 plys of equal thickness.  If it has "inner" thicker plys and an outer "skin" of thin veneer- forget it. I bought some stuff from them called…"
Feb 7, 2012
Frank R replied to Dave P's discussion Superply
"Ultraply XL is recommended. Only available as 4x8 and slightly less than 1/4 inch. No inner voids and waterproof glue. Available at Lowe's for $20 a sheet.      "
Feb 7, 2012
Rick Newman replied to Dave P's discussion Superply
"First of all is stamped with the British seal BS 1088? This will certify the qulaity of the glues and that there are no voids within the sheet goods. Do a quick Google search on Superply and see if you find the same things I did. Some people had…"
Feb 7, 2012
Mike Baker replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"Hey Dave, Notching the frames is how I build too, but it does get a bit tricky at the transom. One note, when you get to the frames with a larger angle you will need to go a bit bigger then the 1-1/2" width to get the true 1-1/2" gap.…"
Feb 6, 2012
Dave P replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"Instead of cutting the inside of the side frame at the proper angle all the way (as the photo above shows) I was going to notch the side frame so the inner rail sits flush with the outer. Isn't that the old school way of doing it? I thought I…"
Feb 6, 2012
Rick Newman replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"Dave, I am not sure if I understand your comment correctly about notching the inner gunwale into the frame. My concern is the gunwales form a rigid structure at the shear line or top of the hull. It would seem that notching the gunwale would…"
Feb 6, 2012
Dave P replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"Good tip Mike, that's what I was concerned about, the gap wasn't enough. Plus I was going to notch the inner rail into the frame. I think I got her figured out. Thanks!!"
Feb 6, 2012
Mike Baker replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"Hey Dave, The bottom width is not critical. I taper mine pretty much as wide as the piece is to 1-1/2" at the top. By the way, the top measurement is 1-1/2" where the top of the hull side is on the rib not on the top of the rib. This way…"
Feb 6, 2012
Dave P replied to Dave P's discussion Frame Angles & Bevels
"So the measurement is right angle to the side and not across at the cut? Boy I was way off. Your pics helped! Thanks Rick!"
Feb 5, 2012

Profile Information

Hometown:
Cedar City, UT
Boats I own:
16' Hyside SB....... 18 ft., dbl ender decked dory

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At 7:40am on February 17, 2011, Andy Hutchinson said…

Dave! Have you lunched that boat yet?

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