installing outer chine

hello again.  I'm getting closer on my project but ran into a snag when the outer chine (oak) snapped during the install.  I had the chines in a steamer for over an hour but apparently they need more than that.  The search function on the forum isn't working for me this morning so I'm hoping someone can give me some details on if/how they steam oak chines.  thanks.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 19, 2013 at 8:05am

Hey Jeff,

An hour should have been plenty. How thick is the outer chine? Are you starting in the middle and bending each end? Depending on the design of the boat this can be a rough bend at the front. I prefer to attach at the front then bend towards the back of the boat.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Jeff Gent on August 19, 2013 at 8:25am

Chines are 3/4 white oak.  I started at the front.  I had just made it past the worst part of the bend when those nasty sounds started.

I've been pondering a unique approach (as I usually do)...rather than placing a metal strip over the chine to protect it I've decided to leave it plain but counter sink the screw heads a bit deeper than I normally would so that in the future (after the chines were looking beat up) I could sand the chines down to about 1/2" thick and then glue/nail a 1/4" thick piece over the top.  Anyone done that?  I'm now wondering about doing that from the beginning....start with a 1/2" thick chine cap, installed as normal, and then cap that with another 1/4" piece.  Going with two different woods might even look nice.

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 19, 2013 at 8:30am

3/4" is way too thick. 1/2" is plenty, I prefer 3/8" with a metal strip over that (less chine dip).

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on August 19, 2013 at 10:22am

I'm just installing chine caps (white oak) for the first time.  I'm right at 1/2" thickness and they bend to the hull very easily.  No steaming.  I agree with Mike on the thinner is better to reduce chine dip deal.  I also beveled the top edge to help reduce chine dip (that might be standard practice though for all I know).

Tom

Permalink Reply by Dave Sharps on August 21, 2013 at 2:44pm
Hi and greetings. I am new to wbp. 2 days old. Have to agree on the time factor that 1 hr. is plenty. A very helpful additive to the water is 10% bleach. I found 3/4 white oak chines to easily ply after 40 minutes. They are hot and bend too easily to apply directly to hull. It was standard to soak the oak until wet. A couple days in the rain was enough. I worked solo mostly so I pegged the inside frame studs of the shop in a close lofting of the curve as desired,port and starboard. Easy to place and adjust as needed. Let set a couple days and then proceed. Avoid iron pipe steamboxes. They discolor the hardwoods. Dave
Permalink Reply by sandy vernon on September 6, 2013 at 6:49pm

I agree that 1 hr should have been plenty of time, but in bending oak or ash, I've seen stuff bend that for sure I'd expect to explode, and there again, I've been more than miffed that what should have bent, did not.

I am another that thinks 3/4 is a tad on the heavy side I prefer to go with 1/2" +/-  a 1/16th. depending on what I think looks right. ie: ribbed dingy with 5/16 would get a 5/16.

 

on the level

Sandy

 

Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on September 7, 2013 at 1:01pm

Jeff: Check the grain runout.  if  its anything less than 18 " you pushing your luck.

Ash bends easy if it is available.

Permalink Reply by Jeff Gent on September 13, 2013 at 10:28pm

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