Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Refinishing Sawyer Smoker Ash Dory Oars
Looking for a recommendation on a quality spar varnish to use for this project. I have used a general hardware store brand varnish in the past and wondering if anyone has found a higher quality spar varnish for this application. Thank you.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on
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Mac: Pettit Captain's 1015 or Flagship 2015 has worked for my boats over many years. Hamilton Marine 800-639-2715.
Good Luck
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Thanks Lawrence - I like the sounds of both of these, perhaps the Flagship a little more for the added U.V. protection. Just curious if you have any experience using Epifanes, and how that product might compare in your opinion?
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No experience with Epifanes-others here have used it. Cost a little more than Pettit. UV protection for oars is not that critical- unless you leave them laying out on the boat when it is on its mooring all summer. I have not refinished my oars on the Peapod since they were made- but this spring I will have to sand and give the britework 2-3 coats.
Good Luck
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Thanks again Lawrence. Have begun the spar varnish job, and of course right after I started another buddy recommended just oiling these oars using the "boat soup" recipe. Well - maybe next time. Any thoughts or experience on using boat soup oil? Thanks amigo.
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Yes- lots of experience with what I call "deck oil"- since this is what they used on the decks of wooden ships ( manned by iron men) in the old days. My father-in-law's house built in 1929 has a wooden floored back porch that gets a treatment of deck oil every ? years and it is still sound. I use it on the mast and spar of the Peapod as well as the stairs at the cottage that go down to the beach.
If you use it positively wipe up any excess after a 15-20 min soak time- or you will end up with a sticky mess- believe me on this one!
Good Luck
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Thanks for the good advice Lawrence. I look forward to using deck oil in the future.
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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
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Mac,
Make sure you do NOT Varnish the handles of the oars! Oil them, unless you have lots of callouses on your hands. It leaves too hard a surface and you'll have a few blisters. Oil: Boiled Linseed oil 50-50 with thinner and a few drops of Japan Drier, applied liberally. Three coats initially and a re-do a couple time a year depending how often they are used and outdoors.
Dorf
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There's a video on you tube where a wooden boat builder talks about using the Pettit's 2015 as a base coat (2x) to maximize the UV protection and then using a third final coat of Pettit 1015 to achieve a higher gloss. This was for flat work on a wooden boat not oars.
I have used Epifanes Clear High Gloss on a 16 ft Peterborough and my Drift Boat with excellent results. I really like it. I have used the Epifanes on my DB oars , two coats (un-thinned) with excellent results over two coats of Epoxy. I think I'll hold off until after a full season on the water to see how they fair. It's real easy though to sand them and add a couple more coats.
The pic below is from last Summer when I added two additional coats of Epifanes. The canoe has about 8 or 9 total coats (wet sanded between coats). It's 9 years old and been used annually.
G'Luck
Dorf
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Yowzer - look at that beauty! Welp - this photo sure shows me how well it can be done. Thanks for posting it, for the video links, and for your wise advice.
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Here's the you tube video link, using Pettit's 2015 and 2010 varnish,if your interested.
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Dorf: Right on with the handles advice- but please stop posting pictures of your varnishing skills. Your immaculate work makes mine look like I did it with a floor mop.
Good Luck
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LEL,
I'd use a floor mop or anything like it if it would give me the result I desired. But, I rolled the varnish on with a small diameter roller, mohair (two pack for $ 5) then tipped it with a clean dry natural bristle brush (1 1/2-2" wide). I find it gives a more uniform coating than a brush.
I have experienced that I find spots of thin or no varnish when I use just a brush. Brushing takes more concentration and a constant light source to eyeball the surface to see you have applied the varnish everywhere you need to.
The rollers are available in most better paint stores, Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore Paint Stores, True Value, etc. They also hold up rolling epoxy. Foam rollers work Ok too but I find the mohair does a better job of making a more uniform coating and the foam won't hold up when rolling epoxy. They separate from the core.
Just my two cents worth,
Dorf
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