Trailer Drawings

Just wanted to share the trailer drawings I mentioned a while back.  Might be useful to someone who is looking to build one from scratch.  The drawings are not complete as there is no tongue, lights, or axle/wheels.  But, the most difficult part of building a trailer is making decisions on overall size, etc. 

We have also made some separate detail drawings of the flip-down trailer stand we are showing attached in the drawings.

The measurements for this drawings came directly from my drift boat trailer, which is a manufactured trailer, but I do not know the maker.  Please shoot any questions you might have as it would be fun to work through them with my students. 

More to follow as we detail out the drawings.

First is a rendering, should show on your screen.  Then, two drawings (one with dimensions in .pdf form)

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.iso.pdf

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.pdf

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Permalink Reply by Riverman on August 10, 2015 at 9:02pm

I'm amazed at the prices of new winch stands. It's definately way cheaper to build your own.   Thanks

Permalink Reply by Riverman on August 15, 2015 at 3:15pm

Would it be ok to just use 2x3 tubing on the frame and 3x3 on the tongue? 

After owning many boat trailers in my over 50-years of fishing... 3x3 seems a little heavy to use on the frame for this light weight boat.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 15, 2015 at 4:38pm

Riverman,

2 x 3 tubing 11 ga. thickness is plenty strong for the tongue too.  The trailer when complete is going to weigh more than the boat.  

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on August 27, 2015 at 6:08am

If you click on the second link in the original post, the drawings specify the frame with the tongue and two cross pieces as 3x3 . . . the two side rails and diagonal braces as 2x3.

If you were to swap 2x3 for both cross-pieces (assuming both were .120 wall), you would save a total of 8.6lbs. on your total trailer weight.

Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on August 15, 2015 at 4:23pm
Yes, the 23rd will be ideal, the angle iron I used is 1/8 x1&1/2
Permalink Reply by Riverman on August 26, 2015 at 2:31pm

To you guys that built a trailer.... what did you use on top of the metal to protect the boat bottom?  Carpet?  and how did you install it?  Thanks

Permalink Reply by CWarmouth on August 26, 2015 at 2:52pm

Here is what I did... I welded tabs to the trailer frame that I could bolt treated wood 2X4s to for my cross bunks and side bunks and I stapled good quality indoor/outdoor carpeting to them. I also put carpet on my roller using contact cement. It lasted for years. If you scroll back to page 6 in this thread you can see my trailer and see what I mean.

Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on August 26, 2015 at 5:12pm

Thats what I did as well,used pressure treated 2x4's covered with boat bunk carpeting and fastened to the wood with roofing tacks and to the frame with 3/8 carridge bolts through tabs that weld to the frame crossmembers. The height of the roller is important and easy to mount too low,the rocker of the boat bottom makes it have to be mounted higher than it would seem,you can guess how I figured this out,and Baker hasnt corrected it as far as I know yet either.One must lift the boat way up to start it rolling on the roller,minor design flaw, but needlessly hard on the back.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 26, 2015 at 5:51pm

Riverman,

I used a pair of  3/4' x 2" x 52" long pieces of hardwood and covered it with Boat Trailer bunk carpet.  It's available in boat stores and holds up well in wet environments.  I wrapped it around the wood and glued it to the wood on the bottom side and then put two or three flat head screws (just below flush) into the wood and the steel tube below it.  

Trailer builders have a 5/16 dia x 1 1//4 long self tapping flat torque head screw that is used to fasten 5/4 planking to their frames on box type trailers.  They are perfect for this.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on August 26, 2015 at 6:09pm

Just typed a long bunch of ideas,forgot to click add reply! Try to angle the bunks slightly so the boat sits flat on them,cuts rough road banging.Also weld on plenty of tie down points including one at the rear for the winch hook while the boat is off.I even put a catwalk on mine made from a scrap of 2x10 lumber,works great.You would be supprissed how much dexterity it takes to wrap the strap around the roller and clip it to itself while standing over freezing water on a steel frame rail less than two inches wide.Look at the photos on my page and all the other trailer pictures some really good ideas.I do not recommend mounting the bunks by drilling into the frame member,why introduce water on purpose?

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 26, 2015 at 9:11pm

If you guys have access to 1/4" UHMW I would highly recommend using it in place of carpet. Gravel and other crap that gets in the carpet will scrape the hell out of your bottom in my experience.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 27, 2015 at 5:02am

I think they are called floor screws. They are self tapping with a torx head. You could also screw them into the wood bunks if you are using those with regular flat head screws.

Mike

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