Briggs grand canyon dory build

I am starting a grand canyon dory build in a month or so, and I am looking for any advise available. My plan is to build off the plans in Roger Fletcher's book, but perhaps convert to a true double ender (has anyone done this?). Are there any other published plans out there for this boat?? I plan to use 6mm Meranti ply for the sides and 12mm for the bottom on white oak frames (is the oak to heavy?CVG Fir?). The fasteners will be Stainless or bronze?? I am planning to use fiberglass/epoxy to reinforce the hull and have used the West System in the past for other projects (not boats) any recommendations for a comparable product?? (cheaper maybe). This is just a start, there are allot more questions. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Cheers

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Permalink Reply by Jeremy Christensen on August 24, 2015 at 1:20pm

Search this and other forums & blogs (montana-riverboats.com, fretwaterlines.blogspot.com), there are volumes of information archived. 

Andy Hutchinson out of Dolores, CO sells plans & fully lofted paterns - hddories.net

Raka.com for epoxy & fiberglass, composites, fillers, etc. 

Permalink Reply by Mike Eichorn on September 1, 2015 at 11:47am

i too am starting a briggs, hopefully make the first cut this weekend! I got plans from Andy H at High Desert. They are great, the lofted patterns are awesome. I believe he is on the river for a couple weeks right now, but i would recommend Andy. I have all of my epoxies (resin research and raka) and my hydrotek wood is arriving friday. I too am curious about the stainless vs Broze dilemma. I plan  on using Ash for the Bow post and likely for the Gunwales as well

Mike-

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on September 1, 2015 at 7:03pm

Mike,

Take a look at Jamestown Distributers for Silicon Bronze Screws.  Silicon Bronze is the traditional choice for marine construction. It is corrosion resistant, helps prevent rot around the screw holes when used under water, and is relatively strong. Although stronger than Solid Brass, Silicon Bronze screws are not as strong as Stainless Steel. They require a carefully sized pilot hole to avoid breakage. We (Jamestown Dist.) recommend drilling twice (once for the root and once for the shank) as well as using fastener lubricant (candle wax/soap) to avoid breakage.  I use a set of tapered pilot drills for the pilot holes with a good result. 

Traditional boat builders use these Silicon Bronze wood screws because they have cut threads and the full-bodied diameter shank. Unlike rolled thread screws with their reduced shank--these screws have a shank diameter that is the same size as the outside of the threads. This completely fills the clearance hole normally drilled for the shank thus creating a waterproof seal.

Cost is More than Bronze and Stainless but worth the extra cost, IMHO.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Carlos Sosa on September 1, 2015 at 9:20pm

Mike,

I wish you good luck on your build. I have communicated with Andy and his system seems bomber. We have decided to go with a framed hull, the luddites that we are. At this point I'm trying to source some Port Orford cedar for the frames. We are planning to use the 6mm hydrotek for the sides and 12mm for the bottom from Edensaw woods in PT Washington. I look forward to seeing pictures of your boat as it takes shape, we won't start ours for a month or so. Phillip thanks for the advise on the silicone bronze screws.

Cheers

Carlos

Permalink Reply by Jeremy Christensen on September 3, 2015 at 11:52am

If you are planning to build from the plans in Roger Fletcher's book, you might want to ask around, because I've heard from several sources that his plans for the Briggs are flawed in his book. Talk to Brad Dimock. Not aware of any other published plans for a framed Briggs. 

Permalink Reply by Mike Eichorn on September 3, 2015 at 11:53am

andy told  me the sme thing

Permalink Reply by Jeremy Christensen on September 3, 2015 at 12:02pm

A lot of people talk about converting framed designs to stitch and glue, but the same goes for the reverse. You could pretty easily convert Andy's patterns into a framed boat, using the techniques from Roger's book on framed boat building. Just a thought. 

Permalink Reply by Carlos Sosa on September 3, 2015 at 12:59pm
Yes,I have heard this. The first bit of advise I've gotten from Brad Dimock is to loft the whole boat using the offsets in the book in order to find the errors. Using the patterns from Andy is a interesting idea. I suppose I could pull bevels etc... Off his patterns???

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