Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Thanks Rick but I`m not gonna show any closeups ;) Most of the stuff has been coated with epoxy and sanded first. I really liked the finish Dorf has got on his builds so decided to try the Epifanes. Of course I`m not gonna go for the full 17 coat show finish like he does!!!

So far I`ve used a coat of 50% varnish/thinner with a badger brush, came out pretty rough. Sanded that with some 150 then gave it another coat with about 35% thinner with the brush, came out nicer but with brush marks, then sanded that with 240 then gave it another coat with just a tiny bit of thinner in it (this stuff is like painting with honey) and used a foam brush. That came out pretty nice so far on those compartment doors with just a little dust in it, so I`ll do it one more time and probably call it good. This next time though, I`ll use the strainer (which I havent bothered with on the first few coats as they get sanded anyway)

On the big areas like the sides, Ive only got the 50/50 coat on with the brush, I`m gonna just stick to the 240 paper but next coats I`ll use the strianer and brush again and then tip it off with the foam brush. Those cheap foam brushes do a great job.

Maybe during the summer when the weather is decent I might give it a little more, but I`m planning on fishing every chance I get too :)

I should have mentioned Ive also been wiping the parts off with thinner on a rag after sanding, but I`m gonna pic up a bunch of the tack clothes for the final stages. Ive used those before doing auto paint and they work great, but dont go far. They are not expensive too. Ive been using this high priced thinner.

I striped the inside of the boat down and got a coat of varnish inside with 35% thinner (maybe a little less) so next time around I`ll start going full or close to full strength varnish. I couldnt do the transom space as I need to hack that 1x2 off the inside. That was a mistake, I mounted it too high for the very back bench.

Your work looks awesome. Thank you for the motivation

No prob. My boat is nothing great, but then again instead of using a cad system, computer programs, prints and plans and lots of math, I just used 2-3/8"x3/4"x10 batten strips of poplar and laid out the whole boat. ;)

Been working on getting some varnish on all the areas that I can. Got a few coats on the benches, they are covered with dust in the varnish, but untill the weather breaks I`m just gonna leave them. I maybe or may not sand and do a better finish when I can get it outside. I`m fighting dust in the house and dust from the woodstove in the garage. Its a loosing battle.

I`m not building it for shows though, its just a fishing boat.

I did a test pc of DF with varnsih, then silica sand in some varnish, then varnish over that and I like it. I`m gonna do all the floorboards with it. Has the look of the wood with a serious grip factor and hoping it will be maintenance free pretty much. This test pc doesnt look too great up close but with a more even coat will look decent.

So I started sealing the bottoms of the floorboards and I`ll be working on the tops this weekend.

Got a 2nd coat of varnish still with thinner in it on the sides and another coat on the inside

I got the anchor system ordered today, I went with the side/top transom bracket with pulleys, a couple pulleys for the sides and a bracket with the pulley and cleat on it for around the seat.

My buddy has this same cleat setup on his boat. He just bolted it to the side of the boat. I cant do that to mine, but I think I can make a block of wood that can bolt between my rails and hang down to bolt this bracket too.

Needed a simple rear bench so I can get past the mess in the rear of the boat and get back to varnish. With all the compound angles....nothing is simple!!

First had to remove a brace I mounted to high with thickened epoxy, thanks Dorf for suggesting making some cuts before I chiseled, that really helped. Still tough to get off.

Messed up the DF a little but oh well, it had to go

I added another pc of DF and made a new brace about 4" down lower than before

Messed up the simple boards a little but pretty sure the fish wont care ;) Now I can take it all apart and get some epoxy on the parts and ready for varnish. I`m almost to just having to varnish everything and put it all together!!

Messed with the oarlock blocks a little. Drilled a test 7/8" hole and the plastic inserts were way to hard to press in, didnt want to take a chance on splittling my cherry blocks so I went out looking for a 15/16" drill bit and all I could find was a goofy paddle bit with a screw thread on it, said do not use in drill press. I found the right size pilot drill and got away from that screw digging in and made it work in the drill press.

The bit cut a little larger than I wanted so I took it to the bench grinder and ground some off each side till I got a hole that was tight. I had one insert that was a little thinner than the others so I pressed it in to do a test fit. I think I`ll be good, so now I`ll get some epoxy on the blocks.

I was kinda wondering how bad the angles would be on this hardware. Kinda out of wack. I guess they just sell it and you deal with however it works out? I could cut that rear bracket up and have it re-welded to square it up and down and re adjust the angle to more straight off the rear? Does anyone do that or just live with it?

I was kinda wondering how bad the angles would be on this hardware. Kinda out of wack. I guess they just sell it and you deal with however it works out? I could cut that rear bracket up and have it re-welded to square it up and down and re adjust the angle to more straight off the rear? Does anyone do that or just live with it?

Mike,
I'd mount it as is. It'll be a conversation piece! Boat is looking mighty fine!
Dorf

Hmm, not sure why my post posted twice...Thanks Phil, still pushing to get this thing ready for our outing. Ive got a nephew thats a tig welding expert. Hes down in Grand Rapids but he comes up to visit once a month or so and has access to welding equipment up here. Ive got the small mig welder that I`ll use for the trailer, but I cant do  aluminum. I might just mount it like is, then have him take a look see. Couple cuts with the die grinder and I can make it straight and plum.

Ive got 2 pulleys for the side rail, one to bolt onto the anchor bracket, and one more to mount onto the plate with the clam cleat. As soon as I can get the rower bench back in the boat I can line that stuff up. I`m thinking just behind the oar lock block, I`ll make a pc of wood to clamp between the rails that hangs down to bolt the cleat bracket to.

I`m just working on finishing carpentry and trying to varnish all I can as I go. Had to back up to working on my seat benches and the pipe rails. I didnt like my pipe supports so I made some new ones. I wanted them to sit on the chine log, and needed a 1/8" narrower on the frt of the pipes for the frt bench to slide nice. I`m back on track now, made 4 new pipe supports, my middle ones were fine.

Got the knee brace board bolted in and made a molding that will direct the water to the corners to drain down off the deck

Got the floor boards done, put a good coat of varnish over the varnish with silica sand in it, made a nice gritty surface.

Started installing the pulleys for the side anchor system, but ran into a challenge for the jam cleat bracket. I think Ive got a plan, might not look as neat as I was hoping. Not much room left between the rowers bench sliding, my storage door on the bench and the oar lock block.

Heres a idea of what that bracket will look like.

All looks good,i guess pending on the anchor weight that may be a little close to the rower.Normally you like to have to reach for the rope a little so you can pull 3-4' in at one go.

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