Well I'm building a 17 54 baker drift boat. So far I've got a pallet of expensive ply wood and one scarf cut

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yeah its paint. I've got a good bit left to do touch ups and maybe a couple final coats.

probly want to hold off on any more paint till you get your top rails on. Might have to sand the paint off to install the outside top rails, (and maybe your transom trim). I think I would want the chine caps on before paint too, and then paint down to them or paint them too, guess thats open for debate.

I've epoxied the transom side trim pieces on. Bottom piece will have lifecaulk. The screws hold the trim on so the life caulk is really there for waterproofing. That's what I'm telling myself anyway. Same deal with the caps.

finally got her flipped over, and a weight for those interested

Still chugging along. Hit a snag and of course Mike Baker had the answer with a quick phone call(shameless plug for his business). Switched gears and started getting the bunks on my trailer. Borrowed a buddy's tap set and after just 3 holes it's done. Soooo can anyone recommend a high quality tap to replace the one I broke? His is an Irwin set and it has 4 holes tapped total. One in an aluminum engine block and the three on my trailer. Seems like they should last longer. Anyway hope to hear from yall
BY,
You can buy individual taps at most automotive stores, Fastenal, and all industrial suppliers. Taps rarely wear out, most are caused to fail due to operator error, especially four flute taps. Look for a machine tap they have two or three flutes and are stronger (last longer).
Keep up the good work!
Dorf
Thanks dorf, just read a tapping 101 article and realized I broke the cardinal rule of metal on metal. I forgot to lubricate! No wonder I broke it
While I got you here dorf, I'm putting 7mm-1.00 bolts into what I think is 14 or 16 gauge steel. So maybe a little over a 1/16th of an inch of metal. Looks like 3 threads maybe 4. You think it's enough engagement?
BY,
For side markers on trailer with sheet metal screws yea. For anything heavier or structural no. You need to add a backing plate about the same thickness as the screw diameter.
G'luck
Dorf
Dorf I misspoke with the 1/16th number. I measured today and it's a bit over 1/8. It's the square stock frame of the trailer. That's what I'm tapping for 7mm bolts. It's still about half as much thread engagement as one would want for 1/4 inch/6-7mm but I figured tjats still 50% strength. I read somewhere a bolt needs thread engagement equal to its diameter for 100% strength. My only other option for fastening are those self tapping trailer deck screws made to go through 5/4 into angle iron
BY,
On my trailer added a 1/4 inch plate behind the lights & stuff. It was welded to the steel tubing increasing the thickness. I used 1/4-20 screws in the tapped holes. The 11 gage tubing is too thin for my liking. The plates only need be tacked in place not a whole lotta weld is required.
Dorf

dorf I yanked up on my bunks and they didn't give but I'll be honest that I dont think they have good engagement. But since the boat will be loaded on with a winch versus ramming under power I think it'll be ok. I mean in theory there is no sheer force on the bolt underway since the boat is cinched down directly on top of them.  We'll see how it goes I guess.  I've got a welder buddy on deck for installing the roller so we may reinforce the bunk mounts.

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