seats, oar locks+what not to forget

Well the Hanna Platte made it out of the basement, barely.  A Rapid Robert out of Fletchers book (for the most part) out of pine and non-marine ply.  My resin/glass looks like crap but painting and trimming it has got me excited to see if she floats since she's put me $600 in the hole and cost me a month of fishin'/drinkin' time.

 

I really want to do fixed seats, for ease of construction and time.  But I'm worried about postioning of rowers seat and oarlocks before actually trying them.  Anyone built a Rapid Robert and have any thoughts on a good possible fixed placement for both?  Anyone run some pushy/big water in a Rapid Robert?

 

I will end up on some mildly technical class 3 stuff in this boat also, so I wonder about oarlock strength if I build it as a block in between two pine sheer rails?

 

I now am going to apply 2 coats of Spar Varnish to all the wood, and fear what sun,water and time will do to the boat.  Are there any musts or steps/items I shouldn't forget?  I love Brad's cooler seat for the rowing seat and nice fish Dave.

 

thanks all

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on April 12, 2010 at 7:52pm
Can't think of a really quick way to make an adjustable seats, but adjustable oarlocks are a cinch. Just drill a mess of holes in your oarblock.

Permalink Reply by Kevin C. on April 12, 2010 at 10:27pm
Hey dave,might try making(2)5"x1. 1/2" blocks with a 13/16 " hole for the oarlock sleeves in the center and just c- clamp them in place for now ,get out on some mellow water and see what feels good.You can drill them later.As far as the seat set up Rogers book shows the seat placements...did you modify the total length of the boat? I would strongly suggest an oil finish on the interior especially with non marine fir.Check previos posts for the home brew recipies...its way easier in the long run
Permalink Reply by Kevin C. on April 12, 2010 at 10:31pm
Oops, I mean Mark...
Permalink Reply by mark hilbert on April 13, 2010 at 6:57am
Thanks for the input Brad/Kevin. I think I will drill multiple holes in my block and put in a temporary one first with clamps to test it. I stained it last night, then was going to varnish it today. Rained all night on it all night last night with a couple old leaky tarps over it (It never rains, this early in April up here at 8400'). Figured I would just be dusty off a couple inches of snow but instead I got to test out the drain hole this morning. The boat's heavy with a half inch of water in it! Most all of you have said oil it, so after a sleepless night, I think I'll listen to all's suggestion and go that way. I don't have a garage or barn/big shed to store her in so she's gonna see a lot of hard weather, at least I'll buy her a new tarp. I'll search oil recipes here.

Thanks, Mark
Permalink Reply by Roger Fletcher on April 13, 2010 at 7:07am
Re thwart placement - Think "trim." You want the boat well balaced fore to aft, which is one reason more and more folks have gone to sliding seats. Traditioinally, fixed seats in the RR have been installed between frames #2 and 3, and guest seat between frames # 5 aqnd 6. Those placeemts will work okay for you so long as you have a way to balance the boat with ballast if soloing. If you plan to solo most of the time, then consider moving the rowing thwart more toward amidships.
Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on April 13, 2010 at 3:32pm
I use UHMW oarlock blocks that Sandy from Tatman hooked me up with. They are sweet and require no inserts... just drill the holes to fit the post on your locks...

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