Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Trimming Frames?
I have searched the forums and come up empty handed on this subject. Some of you know that I am building a 17" drifter on a traditional strong back. Something I hardly every see on here. I bought plans from an online boat designer and they have served me well, but I have run into a snag. Although the plans never called for trimming the tops of the frames off after side panels have been applied but it seems the designer may have overlooked a measurement (or two) and the three center frame arms are out of "order" in respect the curvature of the gunwale. In other words if you look at the center three frames you would expect to see them longer as you move to the front of the boat. They don't... Out of the three middle frames, the center of those three is shorter than its two brothers fore and aft.
That really isn't a problem, per say, as the boat would be considered a high side and I am fine trimming the frame arms to length so that the curvature of the gunwale looks and forms correctly. (We do like these boats too look good too right?! ).
I have noticed the way most of you build is to have frames longer (or taller) than the side panels, but I have yet to see anyone picture or discuss the best practice as to trimming them. I could go at it many ways, but I would like your opinions first. I am sorry I don't have any pictures to share, the camera ran out of batteries as soon as I tried to take a picture for you.
Thanks in advance
JD
Views: 528
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by lhedrick on
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They can be cut flush with any saber saw. Cut the close and finish with a grinder or sander. It they need to be cut below the gunwale where there is no room for the saw you can use one of the oscillating saws like the Fein mult-master. You can get a copy at harbor freight for 50 bucks since the Fein is 300.
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Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on
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Jordan, Japanese hand saw, small teeth, cuts through fir (and straight) in under 8 seconds, faster than a bull ride, 4.99 at the tool store...Cheers, Robb
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Permalink Reply by justin nicola on
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i have used both the fein multimaster and its cheap brother from harbor freight. i would not recommend the harbor freight one for any period of time. spend $100 and get the rockwell one though. if it were me i would use a japanese handsaw, followed by a belt sander, followed by a random orbit sander.
by the way, i ran into a similar problem on my build (which used no plans, just a template boat). i cut all my side braces the same height, using a 22.5' angle for the majority, 18' stem and stern. then when i tried to bend the plywooc onto the sides of the gunnels the angle threw it out. lots of marking and sawing and clamping but it worked. my point is, i wish i could blame the plans on my error, but i should have known better. good luck w/ whatever you decide.
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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on
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Jordan: Japanese pull saws are great for this job. I have 2 one for cutting dovetails in sea chests and another for general work. Also have an "American" pull saw- white oak has knocked a few teeth out of it.
The Japanese saws have a very fine kerf- you can cut right up to a line with great control minumizing sanding.
Good Luck
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you can get them w/ a "rip" blade on on side and a "crosscut" blade on the other side. DONT get a super cheap one. spend a few dollars ($20-30) and get a decent one. cheap ones bind and crack and just generally do not work right. the ones i have i dont remember the brand but they have grey plastic handles and ive had them for at least 4 years. harbor freight is great for a tool you will use once (or screwdrivers and zip ties), not for a high quality japanese pull saw...
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