Chine Batten

For four days now I have struggled to try to put these things on. First the 1" screws were too short and were just pulling out of the wood. Then I reolized I have the wrong wood. Now I can not get the piece to lay flat when bending in. There is a 1/4" gap on the bottom while the top is hitting the boat. I need to get past this step! Any advise for something that will get me moving?

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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 14, 2011 at 10:36am

Work in small sections. Plane that wood down to 5/8 or even 1/2" thick.  1-1/4" screws, 5 inches apart.  work in small sections.   I just put on 5/8" white oak last night on two boats, no issues, work in small sections.  Get creative in your clamping.  Strap tie downs tied to the wall, workbench, car, whatever you have laying around.   You'll get it, stick with it.

 

Countersink with a taper drill, and use lots of beeswax for lubricating screws.  You can drive harder, tighter without the fear of breakage.  Screw lubrication is absolutely critical in my opinion.  I have a surlpus of beeswax (I keep bees), an dI melt it, and dip every screw up to the shank in it before driving.  It really helps.  You can also use linseed oil, soap, wax, etc...

 

Also, I am working with lengths way longer than needed, so I have more leverage to bend.  On a 10 foot bottom, I'm working with 16 feet.  It becomes pretty easy to bend things around. 

 

Do you  have any helpers?  Helpers, brute force and friends are often needed at this point, if you have some serious bending.

 

 

 

Permalink Reply by justin nicola on April 14, 2011 at 11:08am

they make "circle clamps" for building frames and furniture, similar to a tie down, easier to use w/ one man.  and you can buy beeswax if you dont happen to keep bees, its a great point.  drilling through two hard woods, the stainless screws love to shear off, they are not as strong as the weather proofed ones.  nothing worse than shearing a head when you are working w/ stain grade.  also, bribe your help.  i learned a long time ago a six pack makes any job better when you are trying to get a helper over.  think about it, "hey you want to come over and help me..." vs "hey you want to come over and play in the shop and drink a few beers".

 

also, using high quality countersink bits will cause a lot less cursing, pain, and wasted materials in the long run.  i invested in a #6 and #8 made by fuller, they have been hugely helpful in my build.

Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on April 14, 2011 at 11:37am

Ben, In my experience when something is starting out bad, it just might end bad. Regarding your prior posts, not wanting to start over with white oak for the sake of getting it done before your work season and all is understandable. However it will pose problems later.

 

When I installed my chines (white oak), I measured and pre-drilled one screw hole in at the middle balancing point on the chine (making sure there was overlap at the stem and transom), thoroughly gooed the thing with 5200 (or whatever), then installed one screw (at the balancing point, then not having to hold the pesky thing all the time), slowly work out from the center of the boat with the rest of the screws (or nails) to the front and back. Depending on the shape of your boat, you will have to put up or down pressure on the chine to keep it "flush" with the bottom as you move along.

 

Keep in mind that the intent of the length of screws are meant to go into the inside chine as well. Be sure to measure or pre-mark your screws (or nails) that are holding your sides to your inside chine so as to not drill into one of them when installing your batten. The photos at the below links may or may not help...

 

http://www.woodenboatpeople.com/forum/topics/new-bottom-and-chine-o...

 

http://www.woodenboatpeople.com/profiles/blogs/ta-dah-custom-18-x-5...

 

Have faith, you will have a boat in no time! Cheers, Robb

Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on April 14, 2011 at 1:36pm
Your Rogue river design does not have a straight chine panel....it has a curve that reduces the rocker.  This might help explain why there would be a gap on the bottom, while the top of the chine batten is touching the side.
Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on April 14, 2011 at 4:20pm
I strongly agree. I had much difficulty with the chine log as well, same problem that I am having now. I guess I am finding out first hand why this is not the most beginner friendly boat design.
Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on April 16, 2011 at 3:22pm
GOT IT ON!!! What would you do if your chine batten cracked a little, say 2 inches with the grain? Would you just try to fill the crack with epoxy and maybe put a screw ahead of the splitting area to try to stop it from progressing?
Permalink Reply by Terry E Walsh on April 16, 2011 at 6:49pm
Take it off and put on a new one but I kind of have OCD about those kind of things! Those darn things are sometimes hard to get lined out. It will get beat up so the crack might not be that big of a problem if you fill it in with epoxy/saw dust mix, might even be able to put some glass over it for a patch. I still want to come look at the boat. It will all be worth it when it is done.... Then you will want to start anouther one. Terry
Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on April 17, 2011 at 8:00am

Oh I plan on it! Maybe a little more simple of a build this time. Hopefully I will be flipping it back over today and starting on the finish interior work!

 What would you do if one cracked on the river? Im assmuing a repair kit, like in rafting, is a must for longer multidays. What should one carry with them for on the river repairs to get you home?

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