Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project

Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 28, 2012 at 10:49am

I am very tempted to remove the clamps from the transom and start working on the bottom.  But I will force myself to give the epoxy one more day.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 30, 2012 at 6:25pm

I finished rough sanding the outside of the transom area and I laid the bottom panels on the boat.  These are my next steps...

1) Trace the boat's bottom onto the bottom panels.

2) Cut the bottom panels oversize about an inch wider than the traced line.

3) Fiberglass, epoxy, and sand (to 220 grit) the inside surfaces of the bottom panels.

4) Dry fit the bottom panels and drill the holes for the wood screws.

5) Attach the bottom panels to the boat with epoxy and wood screws (I am still undecided about the 3M 5200, but I may use it along the chine logs).

6) Cut the outside edges of the bottom panels closer to the side panels.

7) Sand the outside edges of the bottom panels flush to the side panels.

 

 

Permalink Reply by tungsten on May 31, 2012 at 6:12am

lookin good Guy,what is the stuff your filling the screw holes with?

Permalink Reply by Andrew on May 31, 2012 at 6:58am

Looks like System 3 Quick Fair.  They have it at IPP.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 31, 2012 at 4:58pm

I'm using the West System 410 Microlight Fairring Filler with 105 Resin and 207 Hardener.  I start with about 30 g of resin, 8.1 g of hardener, and enough filler to thicken the mixture so that it doesn't run too much when applied.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on May 31, 2012 at 6:10pm

your painting the outside yes?these dots may end up showing threw.i would run a continuous line like when you do drywall mud over screws in the middle of a sheet.it doesn't have to be thick.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 31, 2012 at 8:08pm

Thanks Tungsten.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on May 31, 2012 at 8:20pm

unless you plan on fg over the whole outside of the boat,but then you wouldn't need to fill them i guess.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 31, 2012 at 5:02pm

I'm getting ready to fiberglass the inside surfaces of the bottom panels.  I'll start applying epoxy in the morning.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on May 31, 2012 at 6:30pm

i just received a roll of peel ply (basically untreated polyester cloth).this would work great for your floor,it would leave you with a nice patteren of little squares that wouldn't need sanding or any filling of the weave just paint right over.i haven't tested it yet but its been done lots before so my guess is its a time saver. 

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 1, 2012 at 11:14am
Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 1, 2012 at 9:54am

Here I go again with fiberglassing.  These are the inside surfaces of the bottom panels.  First coat laid down with plastic spreader, to be followed by three (maybe four) coats (one every 2 hr) with a roller. I will be able to hide the scarf joints underneath one of the frames.

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