Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 7, 2015 at 6:50am

Mike, take a look at Dave's Z Drifter. The frame angles are almost all the same. The boat works well on flat water and small streams.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 7, 2015 at 4:50pm

Tried searching for it. Is it the pram? I saw some other guys Dave Z boats. I still think I can make this work out, I`m not trying to hurry, lots of time. It might not be a Woodie, but I want the pointed frt., transom and some rocker in it. Ive used my alum Jon boat in the PM, but its hard to row

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 7, 2015 at 8:07pm

Here's the link to the page on Roger's Fletchers site that Rick Finnell sent you to.

http://riverstouch.com/PramOrder.htm

Rick

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 7, 2015 at 4:24pm

Thanks Rick F. I hadnt seen that offer for those plans. I might have to look into that

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 10, 2015 at 12:23pm

So, though I havent gotton very far, still going to press on with this build. I did get the compound angle for the transom figured out, had to make a new frame at a different angle to match the 20 degree frame forward of it, but still need to figure out and cut the height of the transom frame. I`m gonna curve the top and add 3/4" of mahogany on the outside I think overlapping the plywood sides that I will screw to the frame, and maybe a curved pc of oak at the top inside of the frame for motor clamps.

The guy down the road here is building fishing boats that are pretty much flat on the bottom (glue and stitch though), Ive decided to add about 7" of rocker to my bottom and made spacers to build up the rocker shape.

I picked up a pc of ash to build the stem, but I think I`ll have to cut my strongback back a few inches and make a bracket to mount the stem too.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 10, 2015 at 1:13pm

So I did pick up some West System stuff from a local store here in Traverse, West Marine store. Geez, this is what $250 got me, and my thought was that I could use the 207 special clear hardener for gluing the frames and to cover all the wood inside and out with, but after thinking about it a little decided to order some 205 fast hardener for gluing the frames and other stuff. So I placed a order for 205, gloves, mixing sticks, foam and chip brushes and what not for another $100 that will be here Tuesday online from Jamestown Distributors.

Then I can glue my half lapped frames and use my straight edge strip I cut to figure out all my bevel angles for the bottom and sides of the frames and get those planed this week and then notch for my chine logs.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 15, 2015 at 8:51pm

Got the 205 hardener in the mail, spread out some plastic on the floor, and started gluing the frames using some 403 microfibers in the mix, wow that stuff is strong.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on May 15, 2015 at 8:59pm

Mike,

Good going, I see your using those Home Depot Spring Clamps ( I have about 50 of them).  They are a good choice for gluing these kind of joints.  You don't want to squeeze out the epoxy with too much force.  C-clamps may do that if you tighten them too tight.

Another thing you can do is to mix up a blend of fillers for different purposes, Ease of Sanding, Strength in the joint, etc.  I used Talc (the stuff you put on the baby's bottom end) and wood flour mixed with West's stuff mostly 50/50 to achieve the same result and save a buck.  Talc is cheap, wood flour is free of you have a sander with a built in bag collector.  I keep it in Zip-Lock Bags labeled, ready to use.

Your Drift Boat is coming along and looking good,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 16, 2015 at 6:41am

Thanks Dorf, I think I read that about the spring clamps in one of your posts and I only had a few, and yep, was in Home Depot and saw those on sale so I grabbed a few. I do have bags on the sanders, so I`ll be baggin up some of that flour now. Didnt realize I could use that much in the mix, I did realize right away it makes the epoxy mix go farther though. Next I`ll bevel the frames with the planer and notch for the trapezoid chines.

I`m guessing I need to put a coat of the 207 clear/epoxy on the frames before the chine goes on? Do I just brush that on the frames with a chip or foam brush?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on May 17, 2015 at 4:18pm

Mike,

For coating the wooden components of the frame and interior of the boat most people recommend two coats of epoxy and three on some more abused pieces.  Chine Logs are some that come to mind.  Give them a light sanding between coats with 100-120 paper.  Anything finer won't give you the "tooth" in the surface you want for the next coat.

As for applying the epoxy, I purchased a box of 2" chip brushes, about, 10 bucks at Harbor Freight for 36 of them.  I take a sharp pair of scissors and trim about 1/2 inch off, then make sure you work them to get rid of any of the little bristle pieces left in them.  

This will leave you a stiffer bristle that can/will be able to push the epoxy around.  Foam brushes won't be stiff enough to move the epoxy.  I don't like or use them for anything.

Hope this helps,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 28, 2015 at 8:05pm

Got a coat of epoxy on all the frames. It soaked in pretty un even, but it seems like it seals well. Also got a few drops and a couple small runs, will sand out pretty easy. It was warm today, and after wasting a little bit of epoxy, decided to just mix up enough at a time to do maybe 2 frames at a time. I put it on with the foam brushes, but I got a box of the chip brushes from Jamestown. I might give them a try next. I was wondering if I should 2nd coat them but I guess the answer is yes. Gonna do the chine logs tomorrow, maybe 2nd coat Sat and start putting it all back together Sun.

Unrelated, can anyone say what the "permalink emblem" means on these posts? I`m not getting a option on the last post to reply either, any ideas why? thanks

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 17, 2015 at 8:44pm

I got all the frames glued up, and the bottoms and side bevels all done with the planer using a batten strip to get the angles, but noticed 2 things I dont much like.

1) the fir I got was sanded 4 sides and corners broke. Made it nice to work with but I should have cut the broken corners off as now I have a nasty seam. Would this be a good place for some fir flour, with the 205 or 207?  and

2) Ive got my tack screw holes, was thinking about drilling holes and using some dowel to plug them, and thoughts?

Decided for the stem I`m gonna use a 2" thick pc of cherry (Ive got a bunch of thick cherry 2x8x 3`-6`) on the inside and notch the chine logs into it, then Laminate 2" of ash to it to cover the chine ends and connect the plywood to, then I`ll make a cherry nose to cover the frt plywood edges with a flat for the eye bolt. Any thoughts on that?

Need to pick up some chine wood this week, and some 3/4 mahagony to joint together for the outside of the transom.

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