Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on November 10, 2015 at 4:33pm

Ha, I know, right? They are pretty proud of those batteries, and the price reflects it. I just bought 2 this year and I could have got a Rigid with 2-18v. lithium batteries and a charger for not much more.

At some point they will stop making them, but still for now, like you said,(and before the voltage wars) the 9.6v, does the job just fine.

I forgot too, I have 3 of those 9.6 drills, and the very first one was before the variable speed was made (and it still works good, dang I am getting old) then I bought the other 2 when they came out with that feature. :)

Remember being young and saying how old guys get set in their ways? Funny how that works ;)

OK, back to boat building. Ive been spending alot of time looking at the photo page and getting ideas for the rest of my boat. Looks like rounding the corners on the fly line deck allows for drainage. Are most made flat or high in the center and curved a little? Does everyone mount supports through the side hull? Maybe I should have done that before all the glass work.

I`m going to use Guys idea of widening the tops of my frames with some harder wood to square them off for the inside rails. Picked up some more white oak to get those inside rails all cut at the same time.

Ive got this far with nothing more than a small 8" Makita table saw and hand power tools, but I`m really thinking about a cheap 12" planer to work the rough sawn boards for the inside seats and trims.

Why does it seam like the more I do the more I need to do?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on November 10, 2015 at 5:06pm

Mike,

If the battery packs are held together with small screws (as opposed to ultrasonic welding) you can have them rebuilt.  Here in Saginaw, Batteries Plus does them for me.  My 18 VDC Milwaukees' were about $45 each.  The smaller ones like your Makita's use less cells and will be less costly.  Google BAtteries Plus to see if there's one by you.

Dorf

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on November 26, 2015 at 9:12pm

Got back at it a little. I liked Guy`s idea of adding little blocks next to the soft fir frames, and Mike Bakers idea of some blocks in the frt and rear to splice the rails into.

I kept trimming that inside rail to length and when I got it bent into place, about 1/8" long at the rear, I tapped it with a hammer and it popped into place. Once it was in place though, its about 1/16" short so I pried the rail out and got some thickened epoxy into the blocks with a putty knife and filled that small gap at the rear. Close enough. Hoping to get the other side in place and a make a dolly cart (David Witton`s idea) to be able to move the boat in and out of the garage, this weekend.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on November 29, 2015 at 8:16am

All excited to get that 2nd inside rail on, had it within 2" of being in place and POW that thing broke at the scarf joint, about jumped out of my skin. So I re glued it with epoxy and proceeded to do the packing tape trick on my screw head indents (more than I thought I had) on the sides. That worked out pretty good on the first side so I`m gonna do the other side today. The only bad part is the extra sanding made the epoxy over the glass a little thin. I can see some weave here and there, hoping the varnish with bury that.

Got that other rail bent into place but my brother in law needed some clamps so I`ll have to wait to get it glued into  place.

So its coming along slowly. I`m gonna work on that dolly cart today. Once the rails are buttoned up, I`ll flip it over and graphite the bottom. Then its just inside furniture and finishes. With the nights in the teens, the little woodstove is working overtime. Might drill the holes for my rail bolts tonight too.

So do people install the bolts for temporary then remove them to varnish, or varnish over them? I bought standard nuts (and washers) for temporary and the cap nuts for in the end.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on November 29, 2015 at 6:44pm

Got the dolly cart made. Picked up some nice wheels with locks at harbor freight for $3 each(on sale) and a few 2x4`s at home depot. Must say, I should have made this a long time ago. Now I can move the boat around with one hand and move it out of the garage for a much needed cleaning and to work on other things if need be. So if your building a boat, dont wait so long to build a dolly ;)

Got that 2nd inside rail glued in place

A simple way to drill the rail bolts with standard drill bits, I got out a cheap plastic door knob install tool. One side is for the tapered edge of the door but the other side has 2 tabs that when you turn it it centers the hole on the edge of whatever, in this case its the sheer rail. This makes for a decent pilot hole most of the way through, then remove the jib and finish the hole. Then run a larger diameter standard bit through the pilot hole and what-la.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on December 4, 2015 at 6:11pm

Ive been going through all the photos on here, a few times, and doing searches for fly line decks, floors, seats, oar lock set ups, storage stuff and finishes. No lack of variety on the site. Also found alot of threads like Ricks rush to hit the water. Did you put that in the water with no finish on the chine caps and sheer rails?

I dont want any fasteners through the hull for the flyline deck, looks like many have just epoxied strips and blocks on the inside to support the deck. Also looks like many have sealed the decks into place, but no one really talked about drainage.

Need to find the pipes and mounting flanges for the seats, do most people use oak for the benches? I`m going to build storage into both benches.

Did the packing tape trick to the other side last night to fill n the screw divits. Still going slow, can only afford a little at a time. In the next week the graphite is going on the bottom, then its all finish work, and alot of sanding. whoo-hoo

Those stainless bolts through the rails are like jewelry for the boat :)

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on December 4, 2015 at 8:27pm

Seafin Teak oil on both. Easy to apply, don't have to mask off anything. Wipe on or use 400 grit wet or dry to get a finer finish. Pluses are not having to sand off the finish and reapply it like varnish. Minuses, the need to reapply oil a few times a year.

Mike, take a look at Steve Putnam's picture album, 'boat furniture'. The Gunwales are done with Seafin Teak oil and the inside of his boat is too. What you cant see is we added to drains on his fly deck. Steve found a plastic 'insert' that has provisions for a drain hose on the bottom of each. I will look for the pictures soon and see if I have them. The hose runs to the boats floor outside the front compartment.

Steve also has built in storage in his seats. Traditional seat frames are commonly made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar or Port Orford Cedar. Steve built his seat frames from Elm.

Rick N

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on December 7, 2015 at 8:20pm

Rick if you have any pics of the drains, I really like that idea. Is Port Orford Cedar a mill cut or a type of wood?

So I decided to cut my cherry blocks in the frt for the inner rails on a good angle to leave the frt stem flat and open in case I ever want to mount a frt anchor bracket. That left installing the carriage bolts a problem. My idea was to counterbore a flat hole into the angle with a forstner bit. It went pretty good, but of course after I drlled 4 hole I thought I need to go a little deeper with one and as fate would have it I made a little chip n the cherry. Dohh,,,oh well, it wasnt too bad.

Then I decided to cut the bolts to length. I cut the first one with the "safe" cutoff tool

But it was hard to see the bolt and I was afraid if I even touched that cherry it would be a huge bummer so I switched to the "unsafe"tool. Took some sparks in the face, but I could see the bolts better.

So figured I might as well cut all the bolts to length, and didnt realize until I had cut about a dozen, that a few of those molten hot cutoff pc`s burnt nice little spots in the epoxy on the floor. Dohh...I`ll just wire brush those spots and apply some thickened epoxy. After that started putting a towel down to catch the cutoff, and caught that on fire once or twice too..thats a live and learn moment.

So I epoxied on the motor mount to the transom, now I`m onto the fly line deck, Ive got a scrap of the Ocume 3/8 plywood for that, tomorrow I`m picking up oak for the knee board, and more DF for the floor boards and the back bench so they match the frames. Still need to get the graphite on the bottom but want to drill in the floor drains first, and I need to start thinking about what varnish to get.

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on December 7, 2015 at 8:33pm

Port Orford Cedar is a type of wood similar to Alaska Yellow Cedar.

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/port-o...

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/alaska...

You have just opened a great big bucket of worms! Varnish, what type to use, there are almost as many opinions as there are people in the world. There many discussions on Woodenboatforum.com concerning which varnish, how to apply varnish, whether or not to thin the varnish, how many of the coats of varnish should be thinned, what to thin it with, how to prep the wood or surface you are preparing to varnish, what type of brush to use, how to clean your brush, what to store your brush in, should you use a roller, what angle to hold your brush at for a start!

Rick

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on December 7, 2015 at 8:52pm

Shute, that sounds easy enough ;) Its just a fishin boat (but I`ll be doing searches on here some more)

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on December 8, 2015 at 6:02am

Mike, Check out Epifanes newer Varnish that doesn't require sanding between coats. Jamestown Distributers has it and maybe a video on it. I have used their regular High Gloss with excellent results but spend a bunch of time sanding.
Dorf

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on December 8, 2015 at 3:58pm

Thanks Dorf, I liked your finish so much I just might do that. JD sends me videos all the time for products, I might have seen that. In fact, I like your floor boards so much I might just have to copy your wide thin pattern some, that is super sharp and Ive got some pretty Dfir I just picked up in 1x6 and 1x4 and a couple 1x6 white oak boards for the knee board and maybe bench frame parts. I`m going to put sand in the finish for grip though.

My dad built a Bay City cabin cruiser from scratch back around WWII, and they used to cover the decks with canvas, then mix sand in the paint over the canvas for traction. It had a 100 hp gray marine inboard that was the biggest at the time.

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