Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by tungsten on August 9, 2015 at 8:52pm
Another option is to tilt your strong back so you can do each side at a time. A bit of a pain to do but it will make it so much easier to get that perfict bright finish
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on August 10, 2015 at 6:08am

Mike, two thoughts for you. Tungsten is referring to the state of the fiberglass epoxy mixture as green when is achieves a basic solid state and it is easy to cut. Trying to wrap fiberglass cloth around a square edge is fraught with frustration. Since you are endeavoring to protect the flat surface of the panel just cut it flush with the edge as Tungsten suggests.

Have you already stained your sides? Have you tried to laminate epoxy to the sides yet? Do you have a piece of plywood you can do a test on before you do an entire side? My concern is you might not get a good lamination. Let us know.

Rick

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 10, 2015 at 2:38pm

Thanks Rick. No stain or glass on sides, but that plywood really darkens up with a couple coats of epoxy. I do have 1 coat of epoxy on the sides, and I`m gonna sand them down(very rough right now) and give it another coat of epoxy then sand it again. I`m using the West 105/207 special clear. Thanks for clearing up the "green" thing, I wasnt quite sure what that meant.

I do have some plywood scrap with 2 coats of epoxy and sanded from the inside of the plywood before I attached the sides, to play with.

I can tip the boat (still attached to the strongback) to do the sides, and I get about cutting it off flush, and being able to clamp the glass to the sides as the bottom is not on yet......But....If I`m going to cut it flush, I think I want the bottom on first so I can run the glass over the joint where the bottom plywood is screwed to the chine to help seal that bottom plywood edge/joint and cut it flush at that very bottom corner. So if that sounds good, I`ll do the bottom glass last and cut it off at the sides. That way its sealed up alot better under the chine strip in the end.  Sound OK?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 10, 2015 at 4:42pm

Mike,

What you are proposing, mounting the bottom before glassing the sides will work. As you glass the sides and cover the edge of the plywood, remember you'll be burying the cloth with 3-4 coats of epoxy and that should offer enough to keep the bottom wood dry.  The outer Chine Rails will also cover this edge and provide the real protection from bangs and dings with rocks, stumps, etc.

On mine, after the sides and bottom were glassed I added a couple of coats of epoxy with graphite to the bottom which also covered the joint between the bottom and outer chine log.  This also helps keep the water away from the plywood edge.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on September 7, 2015 at 12:20pm

Bedding compound to set the bottom in place on the frames? Ive got a tube of bedding compound, thinking about running a bead on all the frames and chine log before I screw the bottom on.

So I got out the "Guys" scarfing jib to try it again for the bottom plywood. This time though I used a different set of sawhorses (home depot) and these allow for a solid 2x4 to be placed along the edge and also for spreading out the horses with the 2x4. Squared up the plywood to the jig, got things clamped and secured well and I also replaced the mica board router base I tried the first time and replaced it with some solid wood and it all worked out pretty good. I did clean up the joints a little with the belt sander, and I tried to lower the scarf line with the block plane, and spread the sheets about 1/8" when I epoxied them together.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on September 7, 2015 at 12:28pm

So I got the bottom plywood scarfed together, laid it onto the frames and traced the shape. Cut out the bottom shape with a jigsaw and got a couple coats of epoxy on both sides and sanded. I`m about ready to map out my drain holes and my side and bottom frames to have a screw pattern for the bottom ply. Sure will be glad to get the bottom on and proceed to glassing the outside.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on September 7, 2015 at 12:38pm

So back to the bedding compound or not to bedding compound the bottom to the frames?

That left over plywood from the bottom will make my fly line deck. One thing about being forced to use 3/8" plywood for my bottom is its gonna be a little harder to deal with the drain plug in the bottom.

Its not looking like I`ll get this done to use this year, but if not thats ok. I can tinker with all the inside trim during the winter and it will be ready for next year.

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on September 7, 2015 at 3:52pm

Hey Mike,

Yes on the bedding compound. 3-M 5200. Spread it on the chine and frames. Nasty stuff but it is the best.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on September 7, 2015 at 7:30pm

Mike,

I purchased one of those brass plugs (less than $10) and had a friend who has a tool shop cut approx 1/8" off the bottom with the plug in it.  This made it about the same thickness as the floor and it is flush on the top and bottom.

I had to sink it into the floor to make the top flush also so water could flow directly into the hole when the plug is out. 

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on September 7, 2015 at 4:09pm

Mike,

Another option for securing the bottom to the frames is West's six-10 Thickened Epoxy.  Comes in a caulking tube and is easy to apply.  Jamestown Distributers also sell their brand, Total Boat Thixo 2:1 Epoxy.  It also comes in a calking tube.

I used the West's Six-10 to glue the sides and bottom to the framing.  This gives you a really good joint and you can use less screws also.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on September 7, 2015 at 5:52pm

Also less messy, I still have some 5200 to clean up years later!

Rick

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on September 7, 2015 at 8:19pm

Thanks guys, I was thinking bedding compound, I got a tube of that but I can use it on the chine cap, I also got a tube of the 5200 in mahogany so I`ll use that for the bottom. Thanks Dorf, I was thinking the same thing, I just hope when I cut that drain down there will be enough threads left to seal. Thats a drawback to the 3/8" bottom. I wish I could have got the 1/2" but oh well. I might just have to try the cutdown trick and see what happens.

Heres a odd pic, it was after the 2nd coat of epoxy, and the entire sheet is covered, but the light played a trick on the ft of the plywood. Seems a shame to have to sand it all down when its looking shiny ;)

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