Wooden Boat People

By McKenzieDriftBoat.com

Another Newbie?

My name is Don Ward, I am new to the forum and drift boats. I have read Roger's book a few times. I am pretty set on building the 16' double ender with transom, however If I am recommended something that you think will suite my situation better I am open to advice.

I am going to float mainly waters in PA and some in michigan, I want a boat that will float skinny water and could possibly fish a 3rd guy in the back(but not all the time). I feel pretty confident in doing all the frame work and trimming the inside from what i have read. I am going to be looking for more advice about finishing the boat, epoxy, fiberglass, and oils are going to be a new ball game, so in the future i will post about this if i cant find it in past forums. Fortunate for me I live somewhat near Dave Z and contacted him last night to see if I could pick his brain and look at some his past boats, (he replied quickly and is very supportive, as he was a few years ago when I thought this build was going to start).

Thanks in advance for any advice and it already feels cool floating around on this forum, LOTS of boats for me to drool over.

Don Ward

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on March 21, 2014 at 1:39pm

Rick, I mostly drink beer and sweep:).

Don, That is a 17x54. It doesn't have a rear seat but I have built many with the rear seat and it does pretty well as long as you know the limitations (no rear passenger in white water). The 16' boats don't do as well they are just not wide enough in the rear. That boat is 4' wide at the rear rowers seat frame.

Mike

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 23, 2014 at 7:42am

Well I knew about the beer, I didn't know you were a closet sweeper!:<)

Rick

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Permalink Reply by Don Ward on March 27, 2014 at 7:02pm

I have been modeling a few boats lately to get the design i want, i pretty sure that i am set on building sandy p's beavertail in a framed version. Now i am looking for anyone who has built a framed one and some ideas for the interior layout

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Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on March 30, 2014 at 2:15pm

I've not seen any mention of the stitch-and-glue Beavertail built as a framed boat. That said, the instructions at the Montana River Boats site involves using "temporary frames" as a strong-back for construction very similar to the free form approach Roger Fletcher describes in his book. If the temporary frames were made from clear DF, Port Orford or Alaskan Yellow Cedar and used tapered dimensions like those for the boats in Roger's book you would have a framed version. The design at MRB has only five frames. If you want to use the nine found in framed boats you will need to add a few. The dimensions for those could be taken from a model or on the boat as it is being built. Put in the five frames, develop measurements for other appropriate locations, and then add them.

The Beavertail is a nice boat - and would certainly meet the needs of an eastern/midwest fisherman. Is there a reason not to build it s&g?

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Permalink Reply by Don Ward on March 30, 2014 at 7:18pm

I have had a chance to email back and forth with Sandy from MRB, seems to be a super nice guy and very helpful! He told me the origingal beavertail was framed and that it uses the same five frames, I built the model and think i am gonna love it full size, when i originally posted i thought that i was in need of more frames, I may add one at the front and back or fore and aft, just to support more floor, still not sure yet.

As far as the s&g vs frame, i like the look of frame more, I feel more confident building frame than working with glass and epoxy and third cost. Don't get me wrong some of the s&g builds are sweeeeet, just not my flavor. after modeling quite a few boats and reading drawings alot the drafting came back to me and i am feeling very confident about this build and my ability to add frames and changes to fit my needs.