Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Baker 17x54 build
Views: 15584
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on
-
Been plugging away at home, got a rough concept of how I'll do my side trays. rough cut the transom and need to trim it finally. Have to fit a temporary rowers seat and launch the boat to see what "Level" is for the side trays that the seat will ride on. Picked up a little bit of walnut for 5 Bucks! Thats going to be my oar blocks, now I'll be able to use the rest of the Strugnell burl for the knee locks up front.
Its all happening
These shelves will be 9'4" but I was looking at blake docters instagram and saw he did a flats boat style rod holder on his pram. If I incorporate that I could probably store 10 footers no problem, and about 6 or 8 rods total
-
Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on
-
Looks freakin' awesome. Did you get some "what the hell kind of boat is that?" looks towing it home?
Mike
-
-
Oh yeah. You PNW guys would have died hearing the conversations with trailer builders about how the bunks run SIDEWAYS(gasp). Yeah the looks were priceless. Rounded over the inner parts of the gunnels tonight. I figured the interior would go together in a snap. Didn't plan on all this detail work. But it's what everyone will see. Gotta do it right
-
-
I haven't had much going on recently, been debating on a cypress or ash knee board. Ended up picking up some cypress and realizing I missed the part in mikes plans where he says to fit the knee board BEFORE the inwhales. Between them being in the way and the fact that my boat is now on a trailer its a process. I ordered durabak and my oil, bow eye, and a second drain this past wednesday. I hoped to be at least putting one of those things on this weekend. I'm taking the boat out as soon as I get the durabak down, bow eye on, oil on, and a drain plug. The first of those will take the longest but other than that its a nights work. This early fall weather has the hooch trout moving. I want to intercept that movement with a homemade boat and a hook.
Forgot to mention I used a harbor freight bit to finish the rest of my round overs. Way back when I picked up two thinking I'd have an extra. Sure enough the one I had used on pretty much everything started to dull(they're cheap) but hey thats why I bought two. I opened the second one up and the bearing was about 10 degrees off of perfect and didn't rotate quite freely. Of course I decided to use it anyway and this is the result. The good news is I now have some sanding to do while waiting on my stuff. And in the nick of time my father in law pointed out that if you put duct tape on the back of your paper you can work it into corners and curves without it tearing apart. Good tip I'd never heard of. Works great
-
-
oh also a page back where the fly rod is sitting in the "shelf" I noticed frame 5 looked weird. Then I remembered I'd made the side frame a full 3 1/2 inch wide instead of the 3 inches wide. Of course frame 5 is the starter frame because its easy. No bevel. Funny how the short cuts show up way down the line. Too late to fix it now haha.
-
Permalink Reply by Kurt Selisch on
-
Hi Bennett, emory cloth works well also for sanding those corners and frame tops. It's pretty tough and I use about 1 inch widths. If the corner burns are really deep, a small round file, like a chain saw chain file takes them out, then finish with sandpaper. Also don't stress too hard on width of #5 and other small flaws on the boat, nobody will notice, except you of course. Builders secrets stay with the builder. Looking good.
-
-
Thanks kurt, On the deep burns i've been using 50 grit. Then touch up with the 150 with tape on the back. And yeah most of my secrets are about to be covered up by that durabak if it ever gets here
-
-
So I'm getting ready to put my bow eye on and have a question. I got an aluminum one and drilled and tapped it for 1/4-20 all thread. Is there a reason not to just slap some metal jb weld on the threads and let her rip?
-
Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
-
BY,
If you ever need to remove the screws, forget it. Same with loctite thrd stuff. It'l require a lot of heat to release the bond. You'll scorch the adjacent wood or burn it pretty bad. Just torque then tight and forget it.
G'Luck
Phil
-
-
Phil I was talking about jb welding the all thread into the aluminum bow eye. I already went that route since I found it searching finally. Yeah on the inside of the bolt I may run a lock washer but thats about it
-
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
-
I agree with Phil. When I consider putting a thread sealant or lock sealant on a fastener I try and consider what stresses it will be subject to. Vibration, continued stress like weight hanging off a bolt head, etc. Since the only time this part has stress on my boat is when it is connected to the trailer winch and traveling over bumpy roadways. Now that I wrote that I think about how driving up and down a terrible road to the Grande Ronde River in Washington State and my winch stand base actually bent about seven degrees. The bow eye didn't loosen at all which suggests that thread sealant wasn't necessary in my application. I did use Boat Life "Boat Caulk" to seal the opening from water intrusion. I have to assume that it may add some vibration resistance as well. I'll let our resident engineer Phil answer that. I also used lock nuts.
Rick N
-
-
Bennett,
I misunderstood you previous comment. There is a thread locking Loctite # 270 a wicking type which is applied after the threaded studs are screwed into the Alum Bow clete. I know this stuff will migrate into the minuscule voids in the threaded joints. You will have to apply a good amount of heat to break the studs loose. I think the J-B weld may not work as well as it's viscosity is much higher and may wipe off the threads as you assemble the studs to the clete. That's my two cents.
Phil
© 2024 Created by Randy Dersham.
Powered by
