Looks freakin' awesome. Did you get some "what the hell kind of boat is that?" looks towing it home?
I haven't had much going on recently, been debating on a cypress or ash knee board. Ended up picking up some cypress and realizing I missed the part in mikes plans where he says to fit the knee board BEFORE the inwhales. Between them being in the way and the fact that my boat is now on a trailer its a process. I ordered durabak and my oil, bow eye, and a second drain this past wednesday. I hoped to be at least putting one of those things on this weekend. I'm taking the boat out as soon as I get the durabak down, bow eye on, oil on, and a drain plug. The first of those will take the longest but other than that its a nights work. This early fall weather has the hooch trout moving. I want to intercept that movement with a homemade boat and a hook.
Forgot to mention I used a harbor freight bit to finish the rest of my round overs. Way back when I picked up two thinking I'd have an extra. Sure enough the one I had used on pretty much everything started to dull(they're cheap) but hey thats why I bought two. I opened the second one up and the bearing was about 10 degrees off of perfect and didn't rotate quite freely. Of course I decided to use it anyway and this is the result. The good news is I now have some sanding to do while waiting on my stuff. And in the nick of time my father in law pointed out that if you put duct tape on the back of your paper you can work it into corners and curves without it tearing apart. Good tip I'd never heard of. Works great
oh also a page back where the fly rod is sitting in the "shelf" I noticed frame 5 looked weird. Then I remembered I'd made the side frame a full 3 1/2 inch wide instead of the 3 inches wide. Of course frame 5 is the starter frame because its easy. No bevel. Funny how the short cuts show up way down the line. Too late to fix it now haha.
Hi Bennett, emory cloth works well also for sanding those corners and frame tops. It's pretty tough and I use about 1 inch widths. If the corner burns are really deep, a small round file, like a chain saw chain file takes them out, then finish with sandpaper. Also don't stress too hard on width of #5 and other small flaws on the boat, nobody will notice, except you of course. Builders secrets stay with the builder. Looking good.
Thanks kurt, On the deep burns i've been using 50 grit. Then touch up with the 150 with tape on the back. And yeah most of my secrets are about to be covered up by that durabak if it ever gets here
Phil I was talking about jb welding the all thread into the aluminum bow eye. I already went that route since I found it searching finally. Yeah on the inside of the bolt I may run a lock washer but thats about it
I agree with Phil. When I consider putting a thread sealant or lock sealant on a fastener I try and consider what stresses it will be subject to. Vibration, continued stress like weight hanging off a bolt head, etc. Since the only time this part has stress on my boat is when it is connected to the trailer winch and traveling over bumpy roadways. Now that I wrote that I think about how driving up and down a terrible road to the Grande Ronde River in Washington State and my winch stand base actually bent about seven degrees. The bow eye didn't loosen at all which suggests that thread sealant wasn't necessary in my application. I did use Boat Life "Boat Caulk" to seal the opening from water intrusion. I have to assume that it may add some vibration resistance as well. I'll let our resident engineer Phil answer that. I also used lock nuts.