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Permalink Reply by David Witton on December 16, 2015 at 6:42am

They do - and unlike the frames, they sit WAY off the vertical, so you need to take that into account when you're laying them out - however I didn't notch the chine log into the stem - I'm not sure if others do that or not. The boat we built at Brad Dimock's shop last spring was my model for that detail - or lack of it. 

At each frame, the notches will have the same bevel as the bottom frame member.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on December 16, 2015 at 7:23pm

ya should be a trapazoid shaped chine log. Theres the bevel for the bottom, and the bevel for the sides. If you were to put them in squared into the frame, it would create a back taper inside the boat that would hold water.

I built mine different, but the components are the same. So the bottom and top angles are the same. The inside and outside are close to the same, depending on the outside angles of your frames.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on December 16, 2015 at 7:36pm

I was able to notch mine into the stem easily with my build with a 2 pc stem, but could still be notched in with a solid stem

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Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on January 18, 2016 at 9:11pm

Drew and I talked about this a couple days ago but it's worth restating I think. The chine notches are probably better off a little sloppy. It is not meant to be a super-tight joint. The chine log is there to hold the sides to the bottom. The sides and bottom are fastened to to frames. The chine log-frame joint should not be fAstened to the frames--it will self-destruct. It should not be tight or rigid--it needs to be able to flex as the boat encounters shocks and bumps. So I make sure mine are not overly snug--which also makes free-form assembly way easier. If I am building a boat with water-tight bulkheads, I use a permanently flexible caulk (LifeCalk) in the chine joint. Otherwise I'm happy to have it permeable.

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