Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat

I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.

About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.

I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)

The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.

Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.

Thanks for being here.

phil w. (Dorf)

 

 

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Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 19, 2013 at 10:13pm

Looks good Dorf,i like the 90* braces to clamp too.I see by the arc in the axel your spring will be  under slung.Any idea what the  frame height gain will be from the center of the wheel?Also how far in  where the spring mounts welded on the axle?

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on April 20, 2013 at 6:52pm

Tungsten,

The wood braces were featured in a BH&G Wood Magazine, were painted red and looked much nicer than mine, you know how some of those Fine Woodworkers" are....  But mine are made from 2"x 6" lumber, not plywood, are  90* and work.

I haven't checked the height gain but will check it out next time I am out there.  Probably Monday if the weather's lousy.  Golf league starts Monday. 

The spring mounts I specked out at 54" hole to hole with underslung mounts.  They do it "your way", so I thought underslung wuld be OK. 

The frame will be 56.00" outside to outside of frame tubes.  With the hubs that go with the spindles I've chosen it's ~7.1875" from the spring mount hole to the wheel face on the hub.  That makes the wheel to wheel mtg surface ~68.375....

More on the way,

Dorf

 

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 25, 2013 at 6:57pm

Thanks Dorf,whats the width of your boat bottom again?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on April 25, 2013 at 7:24pm

Tungsten,

The width at Sta 5 (widest point) is 46" at the outside edge of the Chine Log.  It's a tad over 62" at the Sheer Rail.  The Sheer is 21.38" at St. 5,from the bottom surface.  The angle from the Chine Log to the Sheer is 65 degrees from vertical.

Hope this helps.

My wheels and fenders came in today, I'm going to pick them up tomorrow and will know the complete dims of the trailer, if your interested.  I welded the frame the last three days and primed the weld joints tonight.  Tomorrow I'll start the fitting of the Axle, Wheels and Fenders.  Will be posting a few Pic tomorrow.

I hope I didn't make too many mistakes.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 25, 2013 at 8:05pm

ok cool thx,i'm a 48 bottom 69 at the gunnels.The season is getting underway here so i'm finding more and more trailers to look at.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on April 20, 2013 at 6:31pm

Rick,

The spindles were a separate piece and were welded into the end of the axle tube, hubs mounted, etc.  while I was there waiting.  I suspect they are a standard item from one of their suppliers and could be fitted to an existing axle if the tube is the same ID Dia or possibly they make other dias. 

There was a big poster on the wall with a lot of different Dexter components used to build special axles.  Not sure who their supplier for thse spindles are.

There were a pair of cross holes that distribute the grease between the bearings.  I am going back there next weekend to pickup the wheels, tires and fenders.  I can ask, if you are interested.

I am not a Chip Foose Fan as he is a West Coaster (Calif.) and I am a Mid-Westerner (MIch).  I am more of a Carrol Shelby, Roger Penske, Joe Gibbs kinda guy.  Here's a set of wheels I have considered.

But.......    In reality I have ordered a set of 175/80 R-13's on white steel wheels.  But they have red and blue pinstripes.  Cool, eh!

Dorf.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 20, 2013 at 8:41pm

I have the same wheels! I will have to look into the Dexter components. I will measure and take pictures of it. It was made for pram. The base of the trailer is 48" and distance between the inside of the fenders is ~57.09837596038....", give or take.How about some of  the original Shelby GT wheels, were they American Mags?

Rick

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on April 28, 2013 at 7:02pm

DB Trailer Update,

Last week I took a break from the Wood thing and switched to metal working.  Wood's a lot lighter and doesn't take as much out of you at the end of the day, but is just as much fun when you see it take shape.  I managed to weld the frame and applied a first coat of primer.  Here's a pic with the welded frame and the the welds primed.

Last Friday I managed to get the first coat of Epoxy Primer on the top side of the frame.

This morning I managed to assemble the Axle, springs to the shackle brackets that I welded to a 1/4" x 2" x 25" long plate.  The final Axle position won't be known until I get the boat on the trailer and can set up the proper tonge weight.  The plates are c-clamped to the top side for purposes of assembling them.  After I have the bottom side up, this week I'll clamp the spring assembly to the bottom side temporally, then weld it in it's final position sometime down the road.

Still to do are fabrication of the front winch & stem Locator support, make the roller mounting brackets, mount the d-rings for the hold down straps, Light mounting brackets, paint the whole thing and wire the lights. 

Still trying to figure out how to add the wiring and not have it hanging all under the frame.  Too late to add internal holes to route the wires in the frame.  One thought is adding metal conduit on the bottom side to route the wires???  Makes me tired just thinking about all of this stuff.

More on the way,

Dorf.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 28, 2013 at 8:26pm

I was gonna say your axle is upside down:)

The wiring is a tough one,inside isn't all that good as you can't get at it.Conduit is probably the best for permanent lights.

Removable lights and wires like tow truck guys have will probably last the longest.But its a pain having to set them up everytime you use the boat.

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on April 29, 2013 at 6:23pm

Tungsten,

I bought a set of the  6 1/2" Oval LEDs for the Stop/Turn/Tail and LEDs for the sidemarkers.  I am heavily leaning toward mounting the smallest dia conduit on the bottom of the frame and routing the wires in a continuous loop and not a "Y" confguration. 

The conduit is probably going to fill up with crud and make for other problems So finding a way to seal the open ends is the next challange.

Who said this was going to be walk in the Park, eh!

Today I managed to add a stiffener to the bottom side of the tongue and finished priming the bottom side. 

Hopefully my wheels and fenders will show up this week so I can work on getting them mounted and fabrication of the side steps.  Looking at doing something like Michael Rosso's trailer.  I consider his to be the benchmark, it's a beaut!

More coming,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 30, 2013 at 9:31am

Dorf, how about running a plastic "conduit", the waterproof style for house wiring? I rewired my trailer and ran the wires withing the side channel and through a piece of "Funny Pipe" for sprinklers from the mouth of the tongue to the side channel. My trailer already had holes in it for the plywood that had been mounted to it. When I drilled holes to pull the wire through I found rust flakes inside. I have now added drain holes to allow moisture to escape. I ran snap in grommets on each hole. All connections were soldered and the heat shrink tubing applied.

It sure is looking good!

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on May 5, 2013 at 7:25pm

Managed to get the trailer on it's wheels and outside. 

Still have to make the roller brackets, add the  carpeted bunks, mount the fenders and add the lighting.  Going to set it aside for now and get back to getting the bottom on the DB and then I'll have the trailer to store it on.

More to come,

Dorf

 

 

 

 

 

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