Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat

I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.

About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.

I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)

The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.

Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.

Thanks for being here.

phil w. (Dorf)

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 7, 2014 at 5:57pm

Things around this site are kinda slow the past few weeks so I thought I'd add a few things to keep this going.  

I've been working almost every day the last two weeks on the drift boat and not much to show for it.  The last couple of days were a challenge working in the garage where I can barely get it to 50 degrees.  Today I managed to get it to 45 * (was -26* outside) As everyone who has a TV, Radio, Smartphone, etc knows we've been bombarded with snow and sub-zero temps the last few days.  The reporters around here are young enough to not know this was an every year thing in the 50's, 60's, & 70's. and they act like it's the end of the world.  So much for global Warming, eh.  But we've got lots of Ice for Fishing.  We have not had this much Ice this early in decades, awesome!

So what's new, I managed to fabricate the seat supports (4 pieces), they have two coats of Epoxy and as of today the second coat of Varnish.  They'll be added to the boat in a day or two.  I have fabricated the seat frame for the rowing position, still have to add a few pieces to make and fit into the frame.  I decided the seat supports, from the pipe to the seat frame will be Black Walnut as are the accents on the knee/leg supports in front of the "Guest" seat.

I also built an Anchor system from Walnut & Ash which will mount on the transom.  It has internal pulleys fore and aft to allow the rope to pass over the transom.  No big hole in the transom.  Also started cutting wood for the deck and the decks rear face to which the knee supports mount.  Here's a couple of pictures of some of the stuff I have been working on.

Here's the desk's rear face with the Knee supports temp. mounted.

Seat frame, lots left to do.

Anchor Pulley Support.  Mahog and Ash w/ 2 inch dia. Steel pulleys at each end.

So it's not been too exciting lately but I am finding making small pieces, fitting them, and pre-finishing them is quite a bit more work than meets the eye.  

There's always something to contemplate, design, fabricate, fit, finish.  Makes you appreciate the excellent work of others who've posted previously on this site.  Happy New Year to all and hope to see more projects posted.

Gotta get my Ice fishing gear together,  I hear the fish calling,

Dorf

ps:  Warning; Rick, Tungsten and others  I am planning on using S.S, Carriage bolts, nuts etc. to secure the seat supports, anchor support, etc.  Decided I would eat my words, "No Screws"......  Would like to use Silicon-Bronze but I can't see spending over $ 100 on them.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on January 7, 2014 at 6:30pm

Question; are you planning on cutting out u-shaped recesses on the front and back of your seat. Guys our size will keep stretching out or at least sagging the cords between the supports. How about machine bolts from Lignum Vitae? Perhaps doing a through fastener with a hole perpendicular to the fastener. Then make a peg out of similar wood that is tapered to be driven into place.

Your furniture is looking great, you continue to do great work.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 7, 2014 at 7:05pm

Rick,

Thanks for the quick reply.  I have a cut-out in the front of the seat frame but not the rear. To tighten the rope I have two pieces of 1/2" galvanized sch. 40 pipe which the rope will wrap around on each end.  They both will have eye bolts to adjust them to tighten the rope as it stretches (and it will).  They will be guided in slots in an additional piece (not yet made) and a turnbuckle will be added to "shorten the rope" after the adjustment is used up.

If I were to be 100% true to "no screws/bolts/metals" I'd like to try something like that, it's do able.  But for now I can live with myself.  

I have a carving made from LV, a small 6" Bear.  It weighs a ton for it's size.  The guy who carved it was a Columbian who used a 10" Carbide Saw blade on a pedestal grinder.  No steady rest, guard or anything except 40 carbide teeth doing ~1725 RPM out in the open. Funny thing is he still had ten fingers.  It blew me away, how he was able to carve a piece of wood that way.

I had thought of using oversize wood tapered pins (Trunnels) instead of bolts but didn't want to screw around trying to find a wood and making them.  I guess I could replace them sometime down the road.....

I am committed on having this thing in the water for early April Steelhead Fishing here. Not too far away from now.  Besides this boat thing is cutting into my Winter Ice fishing time.

Tight Lines,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on January 7, 2014 at 7:31pm

I think I can get you some LV here in Spokane. Steve, the guy whos boat I worked on has a small lathe. It would be fun to try to make a couple of fasteners for you. I'm sure he would be up for the challenge. You won't need them for awhile. Let me know. We could even do tapered dowels with a much larger head to stop the travel through the pieces.

Rick

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 7, 2014 at 8:17pm

Rick, 

If/when I make a go of it  I'd make the pins straight and a little long (1/8" -3/16") on each end and taper the holes in the mating pieces so I could split the pins and then drive a wedge in from each opposite side.  

I saw this on a big boat construction where they secured the garboard strake to the keel.  Looked like a real strong joint.  The material strength of the wood and it's diameter would be the controlling factor.  Sounds more interesting as I am writing this.  I'll keep your offer in mind if I go this way.

Thanks,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 1, 2014 at 9:26am

Dorf, I was just watching Rough Cut Woodworking on public TV where Tommy Mac, the host built an interesting bench.He used mortise and tenon joints that were pinned to hold it together. He also used an interesting scarf joint with wedges to hold it together. Reminded me of your project and also made me think of Japanese wood joinery, perhaps there are some options for your purposes there. I may also be able to find some pieces of Australian Ironbark wood that we used to sell as fence posts for Gallagher Power fences. Usually 2 cm x 4cm, came in a variety of lengths. It's so dense it won't float.

Going to be getting cold again around here soon, not like your neck of the woods, just a little below zero by the end of the week.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on February 3, 2014 at 5:41pm

Here's a couple of pics of the work to date.

Another update on the Winter progress.  With the exceptionally cold weather we've had the past month working in the garage has not been too productive.  With two kerosene heaters  and an electric heater I managed to get it up to 50 degrees on a few of the sub zero days we have had. 

Good news, the Ice for ice fishing has been the best  we've seen in a few years.  We've got 12-13 inches on the river where we are usually happy with 6-8:.  The fish, however, haven't come to the party yet.

I have managed to mount the seat rails at their design position.  There are carriage bolts holding them temporarily.  I just completed a test today using 3/8" dia Black Walnut dowels to replace the bolts.  The destructive test was successful in that the wooden block failed as opposed to the joint.

I drilled two pieces of Ash the thickness of the frames and rail supports with a pair of 3/8" dia holes in line.  The outside of the mating pieces' holes were tapered about half way through each piece.  A 3/8 dia dowel was inserted and then the two ends split with a chisel about 1/4" deep.  Wedges made from a 3/4" long piece of the dowel material was then hammered into the splits.  The dowels were then made flush with the outside surface of the piece.  No glue was used to hold the pieces together.

I fixtured the pieces in a vise and wacked one piece with a 3 lb. hammer.  The fixed piece in the vise failed along a grain line, right through the centerline between the dowels.  I was left with piece with two dowels sticking out.  The wedges were intact.  I could have used a better piece of wood with a finer, straight grain but chose one with a grain similar to what's in the boats frames.  I thinks the result is sufficient for what they'll be seeing in use.

The front bulkhead is ready to coat with epoxy as a component.  There is a small ledge on the front side of it to support the front deck.  That is on the next "to do list" and completion of the seat risers and floor boards.

Lot's more to come.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 5, 2014 at 8:13am

Dorf, you'll have to work on carving up some wooden hooks too.:<) Your boat is looking great, with some ice runners, a set of reins and a horse you could really fly down the rivers!

Keep up the good wrok.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on February 5, 2014 at 4:53pm

Rick,

Maybe I'll build a Smitty Sled to carry the Boat out on the Ice for Ice Fishing too.  Could add a Bimini with side covers and a heater.  Not a bad idea, eh.  Could tow it with my ATV, cool, eh.

Was out yesterday on the Saginaw Bay four miles out and there was 21" of Ice.  Marked lots of fish (walleyes) but no takers.  I heard of some guy drove a newer Silverado out there over 10 miles to 27 ft. water.  Gotta have some big kahonies to do that.

On a more serious side, this making the interior stuff is not "all you gotta do".  spent 6 hrs today making the risers for the seat frame and still have lots yet to do.  This boat building is almost becoming work.

"Keep your stick on the Ice", Red Green

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 5, 2014 at 8:04pm

I totally understand. I spent more than four years and I am not completely done yet. However it still fishes very well and is very usable. As you are inventing and designing as you go along it always takes much longer. You are doing fine, exceptional craftsmanship and a unique design without metal fasteners. Impressive.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on February 6, 2014 at 6:34pm

Rick,

Thanks for the kind words.   Short term plan is to make it for the Trout Opener, third Sat in April.

dorf

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on March 29, 2014 at 6:27pm

I finally managed to make some progress the past few days.  It's been a long Winter and I haven't been able to devote as much time as I had hoped. I assembled the rower's seat and the front bulkhead.  Here's a picture of the seat.  The rope supports are not yet doweled and glued in place but they were after the picture was taken (been doing the epoxy work in basement this Winter). All that is left to do for the seat is Varnish it and thread the rope into the seat.

Also managed to fit a pair of front deck planks (2" Wide) parallel to the sides and planed the Mahagony blanks for the permanent planks.  After they are permanently in place the rest of the front deck planks will run front to back parallel to the centerline of the DB.  

The front bulkhead is also in the basement after I epoxied the leg/thigh blocks in place on the aft side. When the epoxy is cured I'll be mounting it permanently in place against the frame at the bow end of the boat.  
Here's a picture if it temporary clamped in place with the two front deck planks also clamped in place.

In the next few days I'll be fitting the Two Mahogany planks and then the rest of the front deck with several different types of wood; Ash. Oak, Walnut and Maple.  

After the deck is well along I'll need to plane more wood to start the front seat and the flooring.  That'll take a while, all the flooring planks are 4/4/ and 5/4 and will be needed to re-sawn to make 7/16" planking. 

It finally feels like I am making progress again.

More to come,

Dorf

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