Durabak Prep and Application

There is no mention on Durabaks instructions about what grit paper to use when applying over an epoxied surface.  The closest would probably be over fiberglass.  They say 30-40 grit, wash, rinse, xylene wipe down.  Also has anybody tried using just a brush without using the roller?  I am applying the non textured version, so I didn't see a need for the roller.   "Troutwood" will be in the water soon!

Thanks for your suggestions,

Ray Cotnoir

Moose Jaw Fishing Guide Service

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Permalink Reply by Joseph Podesta on May 26, 2012 at 12:24pm

i did 80 grit and it worked just fine. You will need to clean the surface aftwards with Zyline so the materials can bond. wear gloves and make sure any surface that you want everlasting durabak on is wiped down with zyline. once durabak goes on you'll have to grind it off...its great stuff...

Permalink Reply by Joseph Podesta on May 26, 2012 at 12:25pm

oh and i used a brush and a roller...goes on just like paint. i think finish would be nicer with roller.

Permalink Reply by Jonathan Clarke on May 26, 2012 at 2:13pm

The timing of your question is remarkable.  I bought a gallon of Durabak 18 last year and am just applying it today.  I thought the instructions said to rough up epoxied surfaces with 40 grit.  I bought the specialized rollers from the supplier and am glad I did.  I found that a brush is useful for "daubing" the coating into corners, but the instructions are correct - the stuff is not paint!  I think it's going to be a real nice project.  If it turns out reasonably well, I will post some pictures.

Permalink Reply by Ray Cotnoir on May 27, 2012 at 5:39pm

Hi Jonathan,

 

Just wondering if 1 gallon was sufficient.  I have a 17.5' Tatman boat and am using the non textured version of Durabak 18.  Hope your finished turned out great.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Ray

Permalink Reply by Jonathan Clarke on May 27, 2012 at 7:52pm

The spec sheet says that one gallon is sufficient to do the recommended two coats on 60 square ft. with a resulting 25 to 35 mil thickness.  My boat is a 14' Tatman (Overall length actually 12' 8" stem to stern) with a maximum width at bottom of just under 48".  I didn't try to plot the bottom to figure the true area, but I'm thinking 40 sq ft. ain't a bad guess.  Sure enough, I used about 2/3 of the gallon.  I think you can get the job done with one gallon.  I really like the results.  I would caution that both the specified Xylene solvent and the Durabak have a very strong organic vapor odor.  I wore an organic vapor filter mask and am glad I did.

Permalink Reply by lhedrick on May 27, 2012 at 7:39am

I don't think you need to worry about it.  A quick scuff with 80, blow off the dust and tack with a damp cloth.

I have had to remove that Durabak stuff and can tell you it's very difficult.  It sticks like crazy.  I bet you could just roll it on a dirty old floor and it would still stick.

It's so difficult to remove that I now only apply it to areas which would never need any impact repair.  It's great for removable floors or spots on a deck.

Think about where you are going to apply it.  Removing it is like trying to scrape or grind a rubber tire.  Getting it out of an inside corner like at the bottom of stem or transom is almost impossible.  Do don't apply it any place where you might need to make a repair.  Keep it 2 inches away from the inside filits on stitch and glue construction.

It's great, tough stuff when it's in the right place.

Permalink Reply by Ray Cotnoir on May 27, 2012 at 5:17pm

Thank you for the replies.  I have Zylene, gloves and so on.  Just didn't get the roller from Durabak as it was not the textured version.  Looking forward to finishing up and getting the boat in the water.

Ray

Permalink Reply by lhedrick on May 27, 2012 at 8:52pm

I would recommend you use a respirator with a canister for VOC vapors.  If you can work outside you can get away with one job but,  in a garage even with the door open Zylene is going to be all around you and it's not healthy stuff.

Permalink Reply by Ray Cotnoir on May 28, 2012 at 5:15am

Thanks to all regarding concerns of VOC's.  I definately always wear a respirator when working with powerful solvents.  That stuff will give you "Dain Bramage".  Today the Durabak  goes on.   Did anybody put in drain plugs after Durabak was on or would should  the drain be installed first and work around it with the Durabak finish.

Permalink Reply by Don Hanson on June 27, 2012 at 12:30pm

  When I work with toxic or nasty stuff I also use a fan.   I have a big shop fan that creates a good breeze.   If I am painting or gluing I not only wear a good chemical respirator but I also set up the fan so that it blows the poison away from me, too.

  Same for sanding.  You can arrange a fan to keep  the itchy dust off you when you sand.

  Don Hanson

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on June 27, 2012 at 2:16pm

Ray, we have installed drains before and after Durabak.  There is no real advantage one way or the other.  If the Durabak is dry it drills well and your bedding compound will insure all stays tight and well protected. 

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 28, 2012 at 4:42pm

Question for everyone...

Do you guys recommend Durabak for the inside and outside of the boat?  Or is it just for the inside?

I see that they make non-slip and smooth paints.

I was thinking of using Interlux "topside paint" for the exterior sides and "bottom paint" for the exterior bottom.  But this Durabak paint looks interesting.

Thanks,

 

Guy

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