Extending a 16' design to 17'

Hi all,

I'm building a drift boat for the first time and picked up drift boats and dorries.  I was wondering if anyone had experience with extending the 16' double ender with transom to 17'.  It doesn't seem like a radical change to the design but I like the idea of being able to have a fisherman in front and back.

Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks,

Chad

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Permalink Reply by Ants Uiga on June 21, 2015 at 5:39am
I am just becoming acquainted with drift boats so you will probably get more informed responses than mine. The extending of a hull is relatively easy.

Whether the revised build gives the results is a different matter. If you think about the consequences like this - assume the 16 footer is well designed and balanced. Will another foot of narrow boat length hold 200 pounds of angler without requiring other changes? Probably not. In an overall sense, the hull shape may not support the weight with balance that is enjoyable to use.

The successful design has this figured out. You could spend your time doing that or simply use a design that has been tested.

Ants
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on June 21, 2015 at 8:27am

Ants, your assumption is correct. The standard McKenzie drift boat is designed to handle two anglers up front. There aren't rear seats for a reason. Check out the following: http://montana-riverboats.com/?page=Driftboats/NewHullDesigns. Sandy Pittendrigh has a well designed boat for fly fishing called the Beavertail, with the obvious implication that the rear of the boat is wide like a "beavers tail" for just that reason. There is plenty of discussion both here on Wooden Boat People and on Sandy's page. Your question is a common one and answer remains the same, a hull with a broader stern will support an angler in the rear. You can either design your boat with a wider rear section or use an already proven design.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Charles Asmus on June 21, 2015 at 8:46am

Thanks for the info guys!  That all makes a lot of sense.  As I've already shown my ignorance when it comes to building boats, I have a couple of other questions.

1) I checked out the beavertail and I like it a lot.  My question is if I have to use the stitch and glue method or if I can use skin on frame for it.  I'd rather have a frame.  I think they look nicer and the firm hardpoints are nice. 

2) Is half lapping joints worth it?  Are they just as strong as regular joints?

Thanks again for the responses!  I really do appreciate it!

Chad

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on June 21, 2015 at 10:50am

Chad, you can build it either way if you can design the frames, frame spacing, bevels etc. If you follow Sandy's plans and build the boat sides and bottom you can them work backwards and determine the frame locations, the required bevels for each frame member as each is different, the frame angles and such. Then disassemble the bottom from the sides and install your frames as you would normally. Then you can determine the length and dimensions for the inner chine log, cut your notches for the chine log and install it and then screw or nail the sides to the frames. From there everything will be the same as building a framed drift boat. You get to determine the dimensions and such for the rest of the parts.

A good question might be how often will you actually be carrying a second passenger and will they be fishing from the rear of your boat? What is your drift boat fishing experiences so far? I primarily carry only one passenger and row so that he may cast to the shoreline and I keep him positioned about 20 feet from the bank. If I want to fish I either anchor the boat or beach it and then we fish appropriate holes, riffles or whatever. If you haven't spent a lot of time rowing it can be somewhat difficult to keep your boat aligned for two anglers to fish. Hope this helps out.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Charles Asmus on June 21, 2015 at 11:51am

Rick,

Thanks a bunch. So the frames and spacing wouldn't just be the same as the strongback ribs and spacing?

Am I just totally barking up the wrong tree?  Is there another framed boat that is similar to the Beaver Tail but skin over frame?

I have never rowed a drift boat before.  I have been on a couple of guided float trips.  Here in NC it's challenging to access our bigger rivers by foot.  Hence I would like to be able to float them.  I'm not sure I'll ever have a need for 2 people fishing at once on my boat, but I would hate to have both of my brothers here and not be able to fish with them at the same time. 

I appreciate the response Rick.

Chad

Permalink Reply by Mark Stuberr on June 21, 2015 at 12:24pm

Charles,

Working backwards to put frames into a boat is not very difficult and is the way some traditional boats are built. Many of them are built on a strong back then pulled off the strong back flipped over and have their frames installed that way. In fact i am considering that on my next build so that i can decide things like having frames spaced to accommodate coolers and ammo cans. If you decide to go this route let me know and i am sure i can drum up some better info from around the shop on how its done.

Cheers,

Stuber

Permalink Reply by Charles Asmus on June 21, 2015 at 1:02pm

Stuber,

Thanks.  How do you attach the bottom to the sides? Would I have to stitch it?  I'd rather not have all of those holes in the plywood if I can help it.

Thanks,

Chad

Permalink Reply by Charles Asmus on June 21, 2015 at 1:03pm

Stuber,

This does sound like the way to go, so I am very interested in how this works if you have anything to pass along.

Thanks,

Chad

Permalink Reply by Mark Stuberr on June 21, 2015 at 1:23pm

Chad, The stitch holes are simple to fill

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on June 21, 2015 at 2:08pm

The chine cap will cover the holes. You can also bring both of your brothers along riding on the front seat, each fishing out of the bow. You can also turn the boat around backwards and allow each fisherman to have a chance to fish from the side closest to the bank.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Mark Stuberr on June 21, 2015 at 4:47pm

I have no idea what happened here, i had a longer answer than just "stitch holes are easy to fix". Anyhow the gist of what i said was this, There is a tradition in lap strake boats to install frames after the boat hull has been built and removed from the strong back. If your first build is stitch and glue consider sticking to the design. If after you have finished and are happily using your new boat and still have the itch for a framed boat have a look at some of the designs out there and build another.

No matter what your first boat building adventure is supposed to be fun. Look carefully at stitch and glue, free form, and strong back construction and choose the one that suits you best. 

Permalink Reply by Charles Asmus on June 21, 2015 at 2:34pm

Thanks everyone.  This info has been awesome.  I think I'm now going to go with a 16' Beaver tail and frame it out.  On the plans it has the 3rd station at 49 1/4".  Doesn't that mean the bottom would have to be scarfed.  This seams absolutely ridiculous.  Am I missing something?  Does this account for the sides to cover the bottom? 

Thanks,

Chad

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