Hi everyone, I'm just getting started.  I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great).  I've decided to build a 17x54.  Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor.  I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem.  I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines.  I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective.  So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails?  It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail.  appreciate any insight you might have.

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That's what I did


I used a router jig with a flush trim bit, but a hand plane would work just fine. 


A SHARP Plane is a must!  a low angle might work better on the Htdrotek.  They gotta be sharp, especially with the hardwoods.  There's a lot of videos on YouTube on sharpening plane and chisel blades.



quick question:  The plans I'm working from say 3/4" x 6" blanks for the "Side frames"(cutting two from each blank).  Then for some reason is says "all 1x4 Material" for the bottom frames.  Is my plan suggesting the side ribs should thinner than the rib bottoms?  I'm aware that 1x4 material = 3/4" -- but I'm unsure about why it would separately mention 3/4" for the frame sides.  

You're right - the frames (side and bottom) are all cut from 3/4" stock. The disparity you mention is just a quirk of the plans you're using. 

Thanks David.

Hello All! I started my boat on feb 1. I am working on building ribs now, while waiting for the wood for the gunnels and chines. I thought I would introduce myself to the forum. I followed Bennett's build and have read thru many times, but this is my first post to the community. This is my first boat build, and my first major wood working project in over 15 years since high school wood shop! I have been having a great time organizing my work space, and getting started with the build. 

I will be back with questions for the experts! (That includes you, Bennett!)

Neal Cordial

Neal, I believe you may have mistakenly posted this on my "discussion".  I'm stoked for you and your build, as i'm in about the same stage you are. I'd recommend you select the "my page" tab toward the top and re-post this as your own discussion and you'll get more feedback.  Good luck and post pictures, etc so I can keep up with your progress!

What glue should I use for fastening frames to floor/side? -- I'm planning to oil the interior.  (I understand 5200 is messy and can cause appearance issues)  also, should I glue/fasten before oiling?


On my build I used West System's Six-10 thickened epoxy.  It comes in a caulk gun tube and easy to apply in just the right place and amount.  Worked fine for me.  Jamestown Distributers also has a comparable product and is just a little cheaper (as I recall).


phil w.

Thanks Philip.  I decided to glue the transom frames with 5200 just to try it out.  Worked alright for that, but i'm concerned about affixing the frames to the panels with it.  I'm thinking about Tape and some sort of guide pieces I've seen some others do on here.  I'd like to do an oiled interior and I don't want the frames to slide and create an ugly area that won't absorb oil.

You can just mask the plywood off and run a bead of thickened epoxy where the frame goes. To keep things tidy I would run neat epoxy on the edge of each frame and let dry in advance.  I did wet on wet there and was glad I masked everything. 5200 seems like not the best material for attaching frames to me though.


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