Hi everyone, I'm just getting started. I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great). I've decided to build a 17x54. Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor. I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem. I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines. I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective. So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails? It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail. appreciate any insight you might have.
5200 from what I understand is considered a "bedding compound" not a glue. It has real good stickey characteristics and gap filling but I don't think will work well as a structural fastener. It is usually a messy proposition when using it (it sticks to everything).
I'd concur with Bennett and stick with epoxy as he suggested.
Another point I'd recommend, any time you use epoxy to "Bond" two pieces of wood together and wish then to stay that way coat the mating surfaces with "Neat" Epoxy (mixed to the manufacturer's reccomendations), mix enough to coat the surfaces and then thicken the remaining, let it cure a few minutes to absorbe into the wood then apply the thickened epoxy to the mating surfaces. For larger areas use a toothed spreader to spread the thickened epoxy to create an even thickness.
If you follow this method you'll have a good solid joint that will be stronger than the wood itself. Bennett's "tape" idea is always a good thing to do to keep things neat.
ps: Here's a link to West Systems' Epoxy User's Manual. Take the time and read it, these guys wrote the book on epoxys in marine applications. They built the first sailboat using epoxy with no metal fasteners and 47 years later it still a competative racer. Their manual is relevant to most if not all epoxys you might use.
I want to clarify: I secured the transom frame to the transom plywood by screwing and using 5200. is that reasonable? or have i missed something.
completely understand that you're recommending epoxy when I join the frames to the side panels.
How thick is the plywood, 1/4", same as the sides? What do the plans call for for thickness? I'd think you'd need at least 3/4" thick Transom if your going to mount anything on it, like an anchor pully, gas motor, etc.. 5200 and screws should be strong enough assuming the material can handle the loads.
yep, 18mm -- just under 3/4 inches. thanks.
Pretty sure I'm going with white oak for chine. I've heard some of you mention staining from the fasteners on white oak rails. Anyone know if there are fasteners that won't stain on white oak??
My white oak chine caps are fatenedwith stainless steel for eight years and I have not seen any evidence of staining yet. Iron or perhaps more correctly steel fastenings can cause "iron sickness", black stains running down the sides of wooden boats. Encapsulated stainless steel fasteners can suffer from "Crevice corrosion is another destructive form of localized corrosion. It usually occurs in the areas under deposits where free access to the surrounding environment is restricted. Crevice corrosion is caused on contact of metals with metals or metals with nonmetals, for example, gaskets, couplings, and joints." Copied from Wikipedia. Thank you Wikipedia.
I hope it help out. When I place the screws I cover the threaded portion with BoatLife Boat Caulk a polysulfide material that seals and remains soft. http://www.boatlife.com/boat-caulk-sealants/ is the link to the companies web site. I have had great luck using this n many locations. It doesn't dry up, shrink and get hard. Also easy to scrape off every time I have tried.