Started on a GC Dory from Andy H. plans (18x54) some time ago and decided to post a few images from the build. The plans were put in CAD and cut on a CNC router so there are puzzle joints on large panels. A few modifications from the original design include laminated bow and stern posts and laminated gunwales. It has been a fun build and I am currently fiddling with gutters and hatches. See how this works and I will post more images.
You boat has a great look!. I am excited to se it on the water.
I enjoy the heck out of my little 10.5' x 36" bottom/60" beam boat. It's 22.5" side panel height, which is slightly too deep for its size.
It has weight capacity, but not quite room for 2 people. hardest part is getting a front passenger clear of your oar handles. Are you thinking 2-up for yours?
I am contemplating a front passenger spot after Andy H asked me the same question. There seems to be enough passenger room up front to clear the oars. I love the look of your boat and the layout you put together. Did you install a water pump system in your design?
Levi @ Raindog is working on a 10.5' front passenger layout, Brad is working on a 10.5' rear passenger layout...you'll have similar space constraints for 11.3' double-ender, but it will be an exciting ride for two!!
I rowed one of Brad's doryaks this summer, they're LOW volume at 9', especially when they were packed with 2 weeks of food/gear.
Actually, no water pump, no drain (yet). I do plan to put in an overflow drain but haven't needed it yet even running class III. It's surprisingly dry. With only the oarsman footwell, there's hardly any floodable volume, and all the sloshy water is right in the center of the boat.
Footwell goes all the way down to the floor...wasn't initially sure about how high to set the drain, but now know I'm drafting about 8" with an overnight gear load.
Here's another tip that I picked up back when I was building wooden sea kayaks:
When sitting, your body's center of gravity is very close to your navel.
You may need to move your body (and your oarlocks) behind the boat's center of buoyancy to get it to trim out with a front passenger.
I was noodling a 13' boat for 1-3 people with some gear in back (see attachment)...black arrow is the COG of one person (oarsman alone), red is one passenger, blue is 2 passengers...this also assumes the passengers are the same weight as the rower.
Great advice Shawn. Thank you for the information and drawing. The smaller dories sound like they are becoming quite popular to put together. They are certainly fun to build! Hope to meet you some time and see your creations.
Side view after getting everything lined up and the interior chine tacked together with thickened epoxy welds. Interior chine tape and floor fiberglass is next. 17 oz biax for floor covered with one layer of 6oz cloth.
Wow, that's a ton of rocker!!! ~10" bow and stern?
I didn't used to like the idea of woven over biax...but after doing some repairs, found that biax wants to "peel" along the strands, and some plain weave or woven roving on the very outside will probably give you better sacrificial abrasion resistance.
Add a spreader and push your sheer line out just a "little" (only another inch or two) about 2.5' back from the bow and it will give you a bit more of a "scimitar" upswept bow. I didn't and wish I had...my sheerline at the bow is a little flat looking.
You have a good eye. 10.25 inches rocker at the bow and 10 inches at the stern. Interior with epoxy welds and pvc spacers.
did you screw that panel of plywood inside the floor down to your workbench to keep the floor flat? Genius idea!
Haha, saw the triple stack of 2x blocking and it looked like a bit more than twice that.
Haven't seen pvc spacers used like that...to minimize tearout in the holes?
Yes, that board is to keep the floor flat until everything cures. Once the interior chine tape is cured I pull those pieces out and lay down the floor glass. Those floor pieces screwed down also help to keep any twist out of the hull. I always spend a lot of time at this stage to make sure everything is lined up and symmetrical. The pvc pipe pieces help with aligning the side and bottom panels and prevent sliding past one another. Basically locking in the edges of each panel. The floor is CNC cut to size so alignment is critical with no trimming after the epoxy cures. I only fill in the remaining outside gap and round over in preparation for glass laminations on the bottom. I applied one layer of 6 oz glass to each side of the side panels prior to assembly and that pretty much eliminates any tear through on the 1/4 inch plywood with the zip ties and bailing wire in the areas that are stubborn.
I really appreciate seeing others' build techniques and the ways they've solved build problems. Thanks for the pics and the descriptions!! Lots of ways to skin the proverbial cat--and you've come up with some elegant ones.