Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Geometry
I’ve been thinking about a new boat and one thing keeps coming up, the rowing geometry in my current Briggs, Huerfano.
Somewhere, I came up with this: if hands are too high, raise seat, raise oarlocks, or longer oars.
Are any or all all of these correct, or any other ideas? (The raising oarlocks one doesn’t make intuitive sense).
thx. Jon
Views: 274
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by David Jensen on
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Jon,
I have had multiple Keith Steele 16' Guides Model (higher sides than his Standard Model) boats over the past 35 years, and found my hands too high when seated on the rope seat. Rather than raising the seat, which would have pissed Keith off in a major way, I just put a standard boat cushion on the rope seat, and that has worked well. I have used 8 1/2' and 9' oars, and the 9' are better.
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Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on
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I bought the extended regal oarlocks to have some adjustability. Are these used in the whitewater world? I assume having them extended could lead to failure but didn’t know if they aren’t the weakest link in the chain. I keep mine extended with the spacers and have my seat a little more than an inch higher for better visibility.
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Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on
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Jon, I posted this awhile back as a way to quantify these dimensions. I wasn't pleased with the response I received, but maybe it will be of interest to you. Guy
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Permalink Reply by David Witton on
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Here's the traditional formula
Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula for Correctly Fitted Oars
- Inboard length of the loom equals ½ the span between the oarlocks + 2″
- Total length of oar equals 1/7 of inboard length multiplied by 25
- Distance from the center of leather to end of grip equals 7/25 of the total length of the oar
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