Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Chris Craft. All the plywood panels are fastened. Next I’ll finish the battens. Then I’ll let the 3M 5200 cure for awhile and keep an eye on things to make sure it holds its shape. After this it’s onto the planks again. Lots of work ahead. 

Chris Craft. Engine status. I received the transmission this week back from being serviced at Van Ness Engineering by David Van Ness. David is one of those rare individuals that knows his field inside and out and is willing to help educate those that don’t. Previously he rebuilt the Carter WCFB carburetor and supplied the new 350 long block. I had the starter and generator serviced locally. I now have all the parts for assembling the engine except the electronics. But that’s a project for later. 

Chris Craft. I wonder if I’m close to the halfway point on this restoration. I’m not confident that I am. There is still a lot to do. 

Chris Craft. These are the backer-blocks for the bottom planks that need them. Of course, they get mounted to the inside surface like the battens. Here it’s the nicest day so far this year  

Chris Craft. I lightly sanded the flat contour that accepts the chine plank to remove any high spots. The I applied two coats of Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. 

Guy, does the hull of your boat consist of two layers of plywood? What prupose do the backer blocks serve?

Rick

Hi Rick. The hull is one layer of 1/4-inch thick plywood and then 1/2-inch thick planks. As I attach the bottom planks I’ll bed them in a 1/8-inch thick layer of 3M 5200. That’s called a “5200 bottom”. The three longest planks next to the keel (on each side) are two pieces. The backer-blocks go on the inside opposite of the butt joints. So there’s three on each side. 

I got you. I think you are doing a fine job. I sense that there beats the heart of a mechanical engineer within your body!

Rick

Metallurgical engineer anyway... : )

I knew there was some sort of engineer in your DNA.

Rick

Chris Craft. Last night I completed the fourth coat of epoxy sealer on the bottom and on the backing blocks. Tonight I painted the chine area and backings blocks with the bilge paint. 

Seeing how I have two boat projects that need a lot of upholstery and canvas work... I decided that I need to learn some new skills. I bought this 1960s Pfaff 362 on eBay for $215. 

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