Wooden Boat People

By McKenzieDriftBoat.com

Looking for help with anchor system

I'm about finished with my Jason Cajune design drift boat. His plans call for a block screwed to the floor under the center seat that the anchor line passes through. That doesn't look like it will hold up to me. There will be big loads applied when you pull the anchor. I'm thinking about putting a stainless plate on the under side of the boat that will act as a large washer.

Any other suggestions, comments or ideas would be appreciated.

I have photos posted on my page if you are not familiar with the design.

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on April 14, 2015 at 1:47pm

I use a Cajune type anchor setup and have not had any problems with the block under the rowers position. My boat has a 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood epoxied to the bottom and then the turning block is screwed down to the piece of plywood. The plywood piece is something like 2.5 in by 4 in. I used glass on the top of the piece, and put an epoxy fillet and faired the edges. I drilled the holes for the screws a bit undersize, and then threaded with the screws. I then epoxied the hole, but in the screw, and took it out while the epoxy was green. The intension was that the threaded ply would be reinforced and sealed. If I was to do it again I might use threaded inserts.

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Permalink Reply by Al Strom on April 14, 2015 at 2:22pm

Thanks Eric for your input, unfortunately I have finished the floor with Durbak and am not sure if I can get that material off. Your method makes sense but the potential problem didn't occur to me until it was to late.

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 14, 2015 at 3:05pm

Hello Al, Durabak can be removed. I haven't yet tried but understand that patience, perseverance, sweat, beer, a low RPM sander and heavy grit paper will work. My buddy Mike in Salt Lake City had to do some repairs on his boat lined with Durabak and reported the method on montana-riverboats.com. He built a boat like yours several years ago. Good luck. I'm leaving next Wednesday for Oregon, hope to see you there.

Rick N

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Permalink Reply by Al Strom on April 15, 2015 at 8:38am

Thanks Rick but the only thing that sounds good about that procedure is the beer. I think I'll sit down, look at the boat, ponder the problem and drink the beer.

Not sure about the Oregon trip yet.

Thanks

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 15, 2015 at 9:41am

Good luck, I hope you can make it.

Perhaps you can have your assistant that initially helped you build the boat do the grinding and you can provide the direction and beer drinking. Wouldn't want to combine beer and power tools!

Rick

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Permalink Reply by Al Strom on April 15, 2015 at 9:58am

Problem - It takes beer to get my assistant off his (you know what) and he's terrible with power tools. I'm good at direction and beer though...

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Permalink Reply by Gregg Maddock on April 15, 2015 at 3:22pm

Al,

I just installed my Dierks floor anchor in a similar fashion to what you are thinking. But I did it prior to 'classing and epoxying the bottom. Not sure it will work for you unless you are going to re-do the bottom again. That metal plate will hang up on everything.

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Permalink Reply by Al Strom on April 17, 2015 at 6:59am

Gregg, thanks for responding. I've thought a lot about the plate on the bottom of the boat hanging up on things. The bottom of the boat has a coat of Linex, the plate is 1/8" thick tapered to 1/16" on all sides. The linex people will set the plate and cover it.

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Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 18, 2015 at 7:37am

Al,great job on the boat.The durabak easily will sand off with 80 paper,use thickened epoxy to glue a block of whatever you have on hand.Cover with glass that overlaps onto the glass you already have.This will take the load of you pulling on the rope.

Unless I'm miss understanding you the plate idea is much overkill and just asking for trouble with through bolts leaking water.