Oars 101

As my drift boat nears completion, I'm beginning to realize how little I know about selecting proper oars.  I will be using the boat exclusively on flat, Midwest water with moderate currents. I've looked on this site and have found some information on oar types, but none on the in's and out's of selection.  

For instance,   If wood makes a good oar, why pay $300 for one wood oar, and not $80 for another wood oar?   Material doesn't concern me so much as making the right choice.  I'd like something responsive that isn't going to tire me out in an hour.

Any ideas?

Many thanks,

Mike

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on June 12, 2012 at 8:21am

Mike, do you have any friends with driftboats? I'm saying in your area so you can try different types out. Don't forget those wood planes you have. You can make your own oars from either a 2" x 6" or you can laminate similar woods or woods with specific characteristics. With the mighty rapids of the Midwest you will will probably want some substantial oars. You know, something with a 2 1/2" shaft and a big blade. You know something that won't bend when you pull away at the last minute from those Class V rapids.

Perhaps when you have refined your rowing style you'll want something a little mote light, flexible and delicate. When you start to dance down the river, pulling over where you want, do eddy turns and fishing behind every rock you might want a nice responsive oar.

Hickory is a wonderfully tough material, pretty hard to "bend" even though I have bent one in the shape of a "C"  on the Middle Fork when I trapped it on the bottom as I progressed downstream. Spruce and Douglas Fir are much lighter and have more flex.

You get the idea, consider the characteristics you want in an oar, heavy and strong, light and responsive, or someplace in between. That's where trying a few pair of oars made from different woods and see how you like them. So remember that hunk of mahogany and what it cost? Balance that with what some clear grain Douglas Fir costs, especially when it is all one piece of lumber nine or ten feet long.


There are some good posts on building your own oars either planning them down or building a router box and using it as a lathe to turn them down. Remember Michael that built the cool seats you liked, he built some cool oars too and did a nice post on how to do it.

Next week I forsee, okay guys, I built my oars, how do I wrap them, and what the heck is the best way to finish them. Don't worry we have lots of opinions to share on those topics too!


How about some pictures, I want to see how nice your boat is looking! Mine hasn't changed much but the houses I have been working on are looking much better and I can keep food on the table. The outfitter I work for just got a hernia so it looks like I'll be guiding sooner and more! I am looking forward to seeing you out here next April with your boat in tow!

Rick Mahog Newman

Permalink Reply by Michael Rosso on June 12, 2012 at 9:35am

I should have KNOWN you'd chime in sooner or later, Rick.  :)  

Just so you know, talking smack about our rivers over here will NOT get you an invitation to come fish our hallowed waters, Mr. Smart-Alec.

In answer to your question, no.  I know absolutely no one who owns, or knows any one who owns a drift boat.  Why do you think I want to start building these things for a living?   We have market to fill!

As for making my own,  not going to happen this season.   I just finished making my own trailer for the boat!  Needless to say my honey-do list has grown long and my wife's patience is waning.  

So a fairly responsive oar that I can use all day long with be great.   Hit me with your best shot.

Here's a pic of the new trailer freshly galvanized.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As for pics of the boat, nothing much has changed.  just been sanding the inside to prepe it for epoxy and varnish.

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 12, 2012 at 8:44pm

Mike,

Awsome looking trailer!!!!  leaf springs or Torsion suspensions?

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Michael Rosso on June 13, 2012 at 5:37am

Thanks!   Had a blast building it.   It's a leaf spring suspension.  All I have left to do on it is install the left fender, cap off the hubs and run the wiring.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 13, 2012 at 7:03pm

Mike,

Your trailer is CLEAN!   You must be a Tinner or Millwright.  Nice quality workmanship!  I assume you made it from plans/dims you drummed up yourself?   The S/M work 10 Ga. or 16 Ga.?  I am interested in the axle asm, is it from TSC w/ 15" wheels.?  Great idea, galvanizing.  It should last a long time and sure beats painting it every few years.

Gongrats,

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Michael Rosso on June 22, 2012 at 11:18am

Hello, Phil!

Thanks for the compliments!  I'm neither, actually.  I worked as a metal fabricator for 7 years, though so I know my way around a shop. :)

The material is actually all 11ga (1/8") wall tubing.  3x3 for the tongue, and 2x3 for the frame. The side steps are fabbed from 1/4" CRS.  I purchased the plans as well as the axle, wheels, and hub assemblies from Dennis Liden at driftboattrailers.com.  He's an outstanding person and ALWAYS has time to help you out if you've got questions. 

The hubs, axle, fenders and wheels are all from an outfit called Six Roblee's out of Tacoma.   14" wheels, and I believe the axle is rated for 2400lbs.  not positive, though.

It's a little TOO shiny right now, but after it oxidizes a little it should look better!  I tried to locate one I could modify, but it's really tough to find a trailer in the midwest if you don't buy your boat from someone.  I saved myself about $850 by making it myself.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on June 12, 2012 at 11:18pm

Mike, great job on the trailer! You do wonderful work. I hope that even with fun I poked at your mighty mid-western rivers I will someday get to go fishing with you. Did my long rant give you some insights on different wood oar materials? It really is a personal preference item. I figure a wooden boat should have wooden oars, although I know that the composites are nice and if I had a pair I'm sure that I would consider them pretty hot stuff.

Good luck on the boat building idea, you folks have some good water and lots of fish sothere should be a  need.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Michael Rosso on June 13, 2012 at 5:40am

Rick,

You know you're welcome to fishing with me any time!   I've already talked to my wife about possibly coming out for the boat festival.

When it comes to oars, I don't think I would care so much about having a solid wood oar or not.  As long as they were comfortable to use and worked well, that would be enough.

Thanks!

Permalink Reply by eric stevens on June 12, 2012 at 1:45pm

The leangth of the oars is the biggest factor that you should consider, and it depends on the size of your boat. The most used leangth is 9 foot, but some people like them a little longer. To figure what will work good for your personal boat find a couple of poles or sticks that are around this leangth and sit in the rowers seat and see what feels right. I have used wood and composite oars and i think they both have good qualities, i like the aluminum shaft oars because the blades come off and can be replaced, it is also easier to store them when you can break them down. Make sure you get the quality oar locks also, on my first boat i bought the cheep ones and they did not last, the metal would flex and then the oar would not fit right.

Permalink Reply by Michael Rosso on June 13, 2012 at 5:45am

As I am just getting around to building the seating I will definitely try your idea out when I get it finished.   For now, I have a folding chair roughly where the oarsman's seat will be. :)  My boat is 14'6" overall length, and about 5'6" beam at the sheer.   I have been told that 8' - 8'6" work well for this particular boat but I'd be open to any suggestions regarding length.

Thanks

Mike

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on June 12, 2012 at 2:47pm

Hey Michael,

For the water you describe a set of Gull oars would suit you. I have been rowing a pair of 8 1/2 foot ash gulls for about ten years. They are considerably lighter (and obviously not as strong) as the other wood oars out there. They also come in fir but only up to 8 1/2 feet. They come without rope wrap or oar stops. Do a Google search and you will find them at several places for about $90 for the 9 foot ash. 

Mike

Permalink Reply by Josh on June 12, 2012 at 3:19pm

If you have the cash the Sawyer Dynelites...wood shaft w/ composite blade...are the best oars I have had. Lightweight, balanced, great feel and your arms aren't tired after a day of rowing. I have had 9' gulls, 9' Sawyer Polecats and 9' fir oars of unknown manufacturer.

 

BTW...nice work on the trailer!

 

Josh

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