Just wanted to share the trailer drawings I mentioned a while back.  Might be useful to someone who is looking to build one from scratch.  The drawings are not complete as there is no tongue, lights, or axle/wheels.  But, the most difficult part of building a trailer is making decisions on overall size, etc. 

We have also made some separate detail drawings of the flip-down trailer stand we are showing attached in the drawings.

The measurements for this drawings came directly from my drift boat trailer, which is a manufactured trailer, but I do not know the maker.  Please shoot any questions you might have as it would be fun to work through them with my students. 

More to follow as we detail out the drawings.

First is a rendering, should show on your screen.  Then, two drawings (one with dimensions in .pdf form)

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.iso.pdf

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.pdf

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Andrew,

Nice job on the trailer, nice clean look!  Beautiful Boat too!  Looks like you only need water to have some fun.

Dorf

When mounting the roller on back of the trailer, do you want the roller even with the trailer, or raised an inch or two (how much)?  thanks

Riverman,

I mounted mine so as the top point of the roller is about a 1/4 inch above the carpeted bunk just in front of it.  I'd rather the boat be supported by the bunk and just use the roller to get the boat onto the trailer.  

As the winch pulls the boat initially onto the boat it'll be on the roller until  the center of gravity passes over the roller it'll drop down hopefully on the front bunk and rear bunks. Whereas the winch will pull it forward until it is in position to tie it down.  

Just MHO.

Dorf

The rocker of your boat, and where on the trailer the boat sits (how far back) dictates how far above the trailer you want the roller.  

I just kinda eyeballed mine, it sits about 1" above the trailer.  I do have to move my trailer set up so my boat sits a little further back.  

If a guy wanted to get really fancy you could make oblong holes in your bracket so it can be adjusted to fit your needs.

A  

I used the drawings an photos today. I have a local trailer guy that does mostly utility type stuff. Took him the measured drawing and a couple of other pics. And he gave me an estimated cost, with winch, lights etc. $450, ready to pull. It will have a black powder coating on the metal, 14" wheels and fenders with steps. Now just to find a roller or suitable substitute.

Can someone please post a close up pic of a winch stand?  As in, how to fabricate it.  Thanks

Mel,

If you look at my post on page 15 there is a picture of the winch stand I made.  It is made of 2" x 3" tubing (the two inclined tubes), the same as the trailer frame. The bottom plate is 1/4" x 2" wide and the inclined tubes are welded to it.  The angle of the inclined tubes are 60 to the bottom plate.

I used square U-bolts to fasten it to the tongue.  This gave me the ability to slide it forward and aft to best locate the boat on the trailer.  The top support is two 1/4" x 2" plates welded on the outside of the long tube.  A rubber V-block is bolted between the plates.

You'll have to estimate the length of the tubes so they position the V-block to secure the stem.

If you need better dimensions/pictures I can go take some pics and measurements if that'll help.

Dorf

I have a couple pictures, try looking on my photos, if I can figure out how to post it I will

Riverman, there's lots of ways to build a stand. Mine was designed for a pram but I had it lengthened. The bottom plate was also an 1/8" thinner and it had only two U-bolts. The bottom plate bent and the winch stand loosened up. Please remember that some of the roads we access steelhead waters are very, very rough. When I had it rebuilt I had a brace installed and a third U-bolt. You probably won't need as much strength for your territory.

Here's how to post pictures: Right above the word where you type your message you will see a small icon that looks like a picture, it's just to the right of the word LINK. When you click on it you will see a box that says "ADD IMAGE". First choice is "from my computer", below that is a box that says browse. If you click on that you can look through your files containing photos after you navigate to the proper file. After you select a picture it will load and you can then choose if you want it left, right or centered. You can also decide if you want padding or space around your picture, for example 10 pixels will give a small white space around the sides, top and bottom. The last thing is the width of your picture, 720 is common and will fill the page on most computer screens. You can add five pictures if I remember correctly. If you want to add more, close the first post you started with and add a second or third one.

You are not alone in having a tough time in adding pictures. Post here again or send me a message and I'll try to help.

Rick N

Hey guys, thought I'd jump in here and show you pictures of a trailer (and boat) my dad and I built. Unfortunately both were stolen two and a half years ago. The dimensions are from a Baker trailer but I modified the design by adding the full length carpeted bunks along the sides, using a ball bearing roller from a conveyor that we found in a scrap yard, adding larger expanded metal steps, and maybe a couple other things. The axle setup is very different. We discovered that the front hub assembly from a 1977 AMC Matador car are bolt-on and very heavy duty. We made a square tube axle, welded plate steel to the ends, and bolted the AMC hubs to it with hardened steel bolts. I liked this setup a lot because, being an automobile hub it was very sturdy and designed to carry a very heavy load at high speeds for a long time. I did not put bearing buddies on it but I also did not dip the hubs in the water, as you can see in the pic. Every couple years I repacked the bearings just to be on the safe side but they probably never really needed that. I kept the boat in grey primer instead of painting it because, as you know, we use these on rough gravelly roads, subject them to weather, etc., and the primer made it very easy to repair chips and surface rust without much hassle. It always looked nearly new.

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