Trailer Drawings

Just wanted to share the trailer drawings I mentioned a while back.  Might be useful to someone who is looking to build one from scratch.  The drawings are not complete as there is no tongue, lights, or axle/wheels.  But, the most difficult part of building a trailer is making decisions on overall size, etc. 

We have also made some separate detail drawings of the flip-down trailer stand we are showing attached in the drawings.

The measurements for this drawings came directly from my drift boat trailer, which is a manufactured trailer, but I do not know the maker.  Please shoot any questions you might have as it would be fun to work through them with my students. 

More to follow as we detail out the drawings.

First is a rendering, should show on your screen.  Then, two drawings (one with dimensions in .pdf form)

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.iso.pdf

Drift%20Boat%20Trailer.pdf

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Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on August 27, 2015 at 6:11am

Just finally got to read back through some of the many responses here.  Great stuff.  So glad to hear someone has built from these.  The kids will be excited to hear that.

Just wanted to remind everyone that these dimensions came directly off a production trailer believed to be a Baker.  We did draw up a winch tower and even a tongue jack (flip-out type) and we'll get those posted once we're back in session this fall.

It will also be a fun exercise to include many of the finishing details you all have been discussing/building (bunks and all).

Permalink Reply by Riverman on August 27, 2015 at 4:53pm

Have any of you guys bought the new LED trailer light kits?  Do they work well with an older vehicle that has the old-style bulb tail lights?  Thanks

Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on August 27, 2015 at 5:03pm
Yes they will work fine, one thing to remember though is that any protruding thing from your trailer is going to hurt your shin until you back into something and break it off.
Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 27, 2015 at 6:57pm

The oval shaped LED Tail/stop Lights mount in a 10 Ga. Sheet metal bracket and if you bolt them to the bottom of the trailer frame they'll get the heck beat out of them if you tilt the trailer to unload the boat either in the water or on land.  Don't ask me how I know.  I welded a license plate frame bracket below the rear frame just a little lower than the light bracket so they aren't the low point on the trailer any longer.

I added red and orange side markers in LED"s also.  They work fine and they are much more brighter as well as more money too.  Let's hope the last longer too.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Riverman on August 28, 2015 at 2:35pm

Last question and my trailer will be completed...

On the winch stand, I'm trying to determine how high to weld the bow roller brackets. If I had the boat on the trailer it would be easier to get it right, but I don't yet. Any idea on what height the bow roller should be on a 16' drift boat?  Thanks for your help...

Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on August 28, 2015 at 3:01pm
24 to 26 inches assuming the eyes are top and or bottom of stem.
Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on August 28, 2015 at 3:08pm
I find it works well to hook the winch at bottom four inches of the stem
Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on November 10, 2015 at 3:34pm

This is a great and important thread that I`m going to need at some point this winter, and I`m sure others will too. With my boat coming along, I`m going to build a trailer, and a real drift boat trailer is the way to go. Ive got a small 220v. mig with argon tank and I`m hoping it will work.

Dorf, thanks for the info on the axle (and the info in your boat build thread building your trailer). I`ll have to make a trip down to Bay City, about 2 1/2 hours south from me. Ive got a fabricating shop/supplier here for the tubing (and my brother in law works there so maybe a discount as well)

Ive seen some double eyelets in the photos page here for the stem on the boat, any idea where I can find one of those? and my stem is pretty thick so I`ll need the bolts to extend through.

Any good info for wheels, tires, fenders would help. Thanks

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on November 10, 2015 at 5:22pm

Mike,

I used a standard Stainless Steel Marine Eye Bolt for the stem.  The studs were too short so I purchased a pair of 3/8-16 (same treads) SS Carriage Bolts, cut the heads off, chamfered the mating ends and had a buddy with a TIG welder butt weld them to the Eye bolt's studs.  My stem is over 4" thick.  Problem solved and it was a cheap fix too.

The guys at Woodland Trailers (989 686-6176) built my axle while I waited.  Only took them about 30 mins.  All you need is the width dims for the springs and the OAL.  they have everything else in stock.  Call and let them know your coming.  

The type of Bow Eye I used.

http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Stainless-Steel-Bow-Eye/dp/B001O0DEJ4...;

You might find them at most marine stores.  There's a bunch in TC.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on November 10, 2015 at 5:53pm

Randy Dersham used to have a supply of the double bow eye. Send him an email and see what he still has.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on January 20, 2017 at 7:17pm
Took the PDF to Stryker trailers/smith sales/baggett connection in piedmont Alabama and they'll build it for 550. Anyone in the Georgia or Alabama area should check them out
Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on January 20, 2017 at 8:16pm

Hey that's great to hear. Glad to know you are getting som

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