"So at this point I have all the major parts for the boat "carcass" minus the bottom (hull sides, frames, stern, bow stem).  Next up is a dry fit-up/assembly to verify all the cuts and angles are correct."

"For the stern, I epoxy laminated 1/2 and 1/4 ply to get a 3/4" thick sheet...."

"Prepping and epoxying the hull panels...."

"Thanks Bennett, actually your build thread has been a huge help.  I'm going with ash for the gunnels (I like the contrast of a lighter wood against the dark Mahogany sides) and also for the inner chine logs.  I tried looking for white…"

"Nice! Good to see a new build on here!  You using mahogany for the chines and gunnels too?"

"Next up was making the scarf cuts on the 1/4 ply for the hull.  I ended making a router jig on linear bearings which worked pretty well..."

"Frames were pre-varnished with Total Boat wood sealer..."

"African Mahogany for the frames..."

"It's a moot point now that I've already cut the notches by tracing the outline of the chine log on every frame, but just to clarify.... I was questioning the plans instructions to cut each chine notch parallel to the sides and bottom, and…"

"That 25 degree bevel on the chine log will allow it to follow the side of the boat. If the sides of a drift boat were vertical then that chine bevel would be 0 or 90 degrees depending on how you look at it. The chine notch bevel is parallel to the…"

"Maybe I'm not following, but the plans call for a constant 25deg bevel at the top of the chine.  This implies there is a corresponding constant 25deg bevel at the mating surface on each chine notch, which isn't true.  The end…"

"The bottom has rocker, is curved, so the bevel at the bottom of each frame is different, increasing towards the bow and stern. The cut in the side of the frame should be parallel to the bottom of the frame - if so, there will be no gap at the top of…"