I've owned many boats over the years, one mahogany skiff years ago, but I've stuck with fiberglass for years.  I recently retired & decided I wanted a wooden skiff, decided a Stauter-built (mobile al) was the ticket & have been looking for one that needs a bit of fixing but isn't a basket case.  Then I saw this for $200 ten minutes away.

Bought it figuring the trailer was worth most of the $ & I'd learn something.

I learned one thing I really already knew, wood boats ain't for everybody.

The boat is fir ply over mahogany frame, & the previous owner(s) (it's 20 years old)

 - Must have had a bad day, the trailer winch bracket was torn loose at some point, & hey! why is there that big repair on the starboard bow?

 - Installed an aluminum angle piece over the gunnel trim, with nails & no caulk This has caused soft ply on both sides stem to stern.  

 - Stapled! bunk carpet to every horizontal surface, and used finish nails to attach in to the seats (must have run out of staples they used so %$@ many).

 - Had added bracing for the seats (because the sides were soft) 2 ways - 2x4's with framing nails * pvc pipe with a conduit bracket SCREWED into the bottom ply!

 - kept it outside, this along with all the other stuff has caused enough rot that the transom will need replaced.

Good news?

 - It was well built originally, and simply built too.

 - the bottom appears sound, or at least usable.

 - so far, most of the mahogany is OK, I'll need to replace some trim.

 - It only has a few coats of paint.

Questions,

 - My plan now it to keep removing the bad ply on the starboard side, & rebuild it using the port side as my pattern, as long as I have beam measurements (& the original bench seats) that should work right?

 - I have lots of wood including big piece of cypress I could use for the transom, how would that compare with plywood for strength & durability.

- What glue do y'all recommend for joints like this & for laminating two pieces of 3/4 ply for my transom?

doug

 

 

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Wow! that is gonna be a project! I'm a rookie builder so I can't give you any advice, but this will be fun to watch this progress, keep us posted. 

Most of it will buff out!

:<)

Rick N

sure! buff right out of the boat!  I may do no more than tear it apart, depends on what's left as I get there.

so what is this boat, name of builder, size? going to be one heck of a build but if you do it right it should be nice and a fun boat too boot. good luck and post pic's on the rebuild.

JW

Doug:  The first thing you have to do to get information from this site is to get rid of that Wellcraft on the port side.  Not really - I still run a 1975 SeaCraft.  The transom would be stronger when fabricated from 2 thickness of 3/4" marine ply or pressure treated(Home Depot)  using epoxy glue.  I would save the cypress for some of the internal pieces you will need to replace- this is a good wood- strong/rot resistant.  The PW transom will be stronger than the solid cypress.  If long enough you might use some of the cypress on the inwales/outwales.  If you can get one side off to use as a pattern it might save a lot of work.  As to the $200- the tires and rims are worth that much

Good luck and keep us posted

Looks like the jokes on me.   Started the teardown & it was just too far gone.  It was well built originally, and I'm still looking for a stauter, just not this one.  I have a friend who needs the trailer so once he & I make a trip to the dump, all that will be left is some seats & tim, plus the 3'I cut off the bow to make a shelf!  Thanks for the advice, hopefully I'll be back.

If at first you don't succeed try try again!, I bought another Stauter boat this week, a bit more "there" than this one, I'll start a new thread.

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