Another Noob trying his hand at boat building

Greetings everyone!  My name is Noah, and I'm building a 14' Mackenzie from Roger Fletchers book with my buddy Chuck.  With a name like Noah, I guess you're pretty much required to build a boat sometime in your lifetime.  

First off I want to thank everyone for the loads of info I've been able to find on this website.  There is a pretty impressive wealth of knowledge if you're up for reading through all the posts.  

I managed a hostile takeover of my Grandpa's wood shop for the project.  Not sure if he's figured out how long this boat's going to take to finish up, but he's along for the ride either way.  

Went through a couple piles of white oak my dad had rough sawed 7 years ago.  Should be dry by now.  Not much clear in the wood but I've been able to cut around the knots to get plenty of good framing wood.  

Drew out the frame lines

Ripped down my base boards.  Managed to find a nice piece of rough sawed ash in the pile.  Didn't match the oak obviously, but all I had that was sized right. 

Built a jig that I could rip my frame sides with the angled cuts while getting the correct bevel at the same time.  Maybe I'm off base here, but I didn't see much info on how others are accomplishing this task.  Worked pretty slick.  Just drew my lines and set the bevel on the table saw.  I rough cut the pieces first with a band saw so I had a smaller piece to work with.  Might have had a barley pop or two in the process.  

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Permalink Reply by Noah Wenger on April 27, 2015 at 8:13pm

Cut the drain holes in the frame bases.  Another opportunity to make up a jig.  Always like doing that.

Permalink Reply by Noah Wenger on April 27, 2015 at 8:18pm

Guess I don't know how to keep adding to what I've wrote so far.  Do I just keep replying to my post's?  

Dry fit the frames this weekend.  Lines are coming together nicely as far as I'm concerned.  Should be it for progress on the boat for about a month.  Headed to the fields for some farming.  

Permalink Reply by craig curtis on April 27, 2015 at 9:45pm

don't leave us hanging that long, looks like you are doing a great job. everyone has there own techniques and favorite finishes so just go with the way you feel most comfortable. your the one who has to look at it every time you us it.

Permalink Reply by Mike on April 28, 2015 at 7:22am

Noah...very cool pics and narrative, much appreciated.  I would be interested in learning more about how you built you jig for your frames.  I've been pondering this issue lately, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 28, 2015 at 8:33am

Noah, you are right on task. Mike Baker also likes using jigs and has one to cut the chine notches. He'll see your post for sure. Just keep adding posts. You are doing a great job.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Noah Wenger on April 28, 2015 at 8:50pm

Rick,

Chine notches are next on my list.  Any pics of Mike B's jig?  I haven't come up with a good plan other than freehand to get it done

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 28, 2015 at 9:11pm

It is essentially a similar concept. Determine the dimensions of your chine log andbuild a jg that will allow you to vary the depth, width and angles as needed. Mike goes tobed early, perhaps you can visit bakerwooddriftboats.com and ask him.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on April 29, 2015 at 8:45pm

Cool Jigs Noah,

I can't for the life of me find a pic of my jig. I can tell you that I set the table saw at the angle of the chine. I lay the side rib on the bed of the saw. The distance from the blade determines the height of the cut. The blade height determines the thickness of the cut. This way nothing ever gets changed, all angles stay the same. The tricky part (where the jig comes in) is that the rib assembly needs to be laid on the saw so the part that contacts the hull side is flat, which means that on the ribs with a lot of angle are kind of precarious. Probably not worth it for one boat.

Kevin C. had a post a while back maybe you can find it, he does it a bit different but similar.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Noah Wenger on April 28, 2015 at 8:49pm

Basically it's just a couple boards that are squared up.  I countersank some carriage bolts, tightened to the bottom board with nuts and washers, and put wing nuts on the top for an easy hand crank.

I measured out my pieces from the drawings on the plywood, transposed that on the frame piece, and aligned the line I drew with the edge of the jig.  You have to reset the fence before ripping each piece.   The rip width changes due to the change in bevel when you set your saw angle.  

Make sure you make the boards plenty long so you can fit your pieces between the carriage bolts.  I cut them plenty short.  It wasn't necessary to have four bolts through the jig.  I think one on each end would hold well enough...

It's the only way I could come up with on how to rip them. I'd be interested in how other's get it done.

Permalink Reply by craig curtis on April 28, 2015 at 10:24pm

you could use one board with a t-rail track in it and then use hold down clamps. Rockler makes a nice one to use on your tablesaw.

I put a small piece of chine next to my ribs to get my lines, would be nice to have a jig but the angle changes with each rib.

Permalink Reply by Kurt Selisch on April 29, 2015 at 9:13am

This is a simple little chine notch jig I made out of some 3/4 scrap and two cheapo hinges from the hardware store. The hinges allow the jig to swivel and match the bottom and side bevels. Then use a thin kerf pull saw laid flat on the top surface to make the cut. Makes a much cleaner cut then free hand. It would not work on #1 and #9 as the bevels were to steep

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Permalink Reply by Kurt Selisch on April 29, 2015 at 9:30am

Chine notch jig

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