Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 4, 2015 at 7:21pm

Mike,

You can just use a thickened epoxy.  Clamp it in position and do your trim work and after get a couple of coats of epoxy on it.  You have a lot of surface area on the transom frame,  it won't be going anywhere.  I'd stay away from 5200 on this one.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 13, 2015 at 5:11pm

Thanks Dorf, did just that. Got the chines set on both sides on the rear, 5 frames + transom frame with epoxy and stainless screws and cut off the chines flush with the transom frame.

The transom board I made up came out ok, but after working it wasnt as flat as I liked so I took it over to the wood shed store and had them run it through the 36" sander just to clean it up and get it super flat. ($20) Rough cut it and left it just a little proud on the sides to plane to the transom frame, got it glued on with thickened epoxy, I`ll work it tomorrow then coat it inside and out with epoxy.

Also, left it hangin down long(which will be the top) and once its flipped over I`ll cut and shape the top of the transom to flow with the plywood sides and add a top/inside pc of oak for a motor mount.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 14, 2015 at 7:50pm

3/8" plywood/no glass-1/4"/ w/glass, opinions? The guy down the road strongly suggests 3/8" ply and no glass. He has built 28 boats. I`m going to paint the outside.

Got the transom board beveled and the stem and chine for the frt 4 frames set with epoxy. So the chine logs are all set in epoxy and held with stainless screws and done other than some sanding.I`ll get the stem and transom board coated with some epoxy and sand all the frames, and I`ll be ready for plywood on the sides.

I think I made a mistake leaving the rear frame square, I`ll have to figure something out for the inside gunnel at the transom.

I`ll cut of the chines and finish the 2 part stem tomorrow too.

Permalink Reply by Gregg Maddock on June 16, 2015 at 12:27pm
If you are using fir, 'glass it. If you don't it will check. If it is not fir throw 2-4 coats of epoxy, paint it and call it good.
Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 16, 2015 at 2:23pm

OK, i`ll be checking up on the plywood to see what I can get. Still wondering 1/4" or 3/8" for the sides? I got the 2 part stem epoxied together, sanded up the chines a bit and got a first coat of 105/207 on that transom board (looks pretty with some color in it) and the touched up the chines where I sanded. I`m gonna touch up sand the stem tonight. I think I should have been more selective what I used for the stem instead of just scrap as the top wont look too pretty but oh well. This boat will be for fishing not show. I`m getting really close to plywood now.

Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on June 16, 2015 at 3:49pm

1/4 inch ply would be adequate - most dories are built with that size. The dories heading into the Grand Canyon are almost all 1/4.

If you are going to paint consider "fairing" the panels before you do if you want a gloss, sprayed on finish look. If the panels are not faired there are high and low spots and if you do any sanding you will expose primer on the high spots. Fairing is done with the "light" fillers in epoxy. I used System 3 quick fair, a pre-mix. If you use west or raka they will let you know the filler to produce a fairing compound. You spread it on, let it set, and then sand the panel "fair". Then when you paint you don't have high and low spots.

If you don't want to glass or epoxy and just go with bare wood, Kirby paint can go on without a lot of fuss.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 17, 2015 at 5:51am

Most common is 1/4" for the sides,3/8 is just overkill and no doubt would be hard to get to wrap around the frames.

Its either do a really good job of pre soaking the ply in epoxy then glass then more epoxy or stick with the boat soup.

Epoxy alone isn't that tough,you really need glass even a light layer like 4oz will work.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 18, 2015 at 6:13pm

Fairing epoxy before the glass? I`m gonna go with the 1/4" for the sides, and I`ll try my hand at glass. That sounds like the best choice. I guess depending on what kind of ply I can get, I`m not opposed to just clearing the outside instead of paint. I would like to have a light color, clear finish on the inside. Will the fairing compound allow for a clear finish on the outside? Ive never used anything like that so its all new to me. If I was to go clear (or stained) on the outside, would bronze screws be better vs. stainless screws as the will be seen, and with that in mind what would be recommended for screw spacing on the frames? Thanks for the help.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 18, 2015 at 8:17pm

http://paryachts.blogspot.com.paryachts.com/p/blog-page_93.html     Mike,here's a link with some good info.Read it a few times,i always read it just before I'm about to glass something.at the bottom it also has the addresses for west and system 3 guide books.

This will give you a start on glassing and coating raw plywood.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 18, 2015 at 8:19pm

Mike,

If you glass the side panels (before you secure them to the frame) you will NOT need to Fair them with epoxy.  The glass and epoxy will give you a nice natural finish. You'll have to Varnish the panels on the boat to obtain UV Protection.  Epoxy doesn't have any and it'll break down when exposed to the Sun's UV over time.  You can do a search on this forum for more on Varnishing.

Take a look at Guy Fredrickson's Wooden Drift Boat posting.  Check out page 14-15 where he shows the glassing of the side panels.  Study West System's Information on their web site before you do it.  There's a lot of good information there on glassing.  One work of caution, when spreading the epoxy on the cloth do NOT overwork it as it will turn a "Milkey White" color and it doesn't go away!

Take a look at Jamestown Distributer's for their Silicon Bronze Screws.  They are a better screw than Regular Brass.  They are a little more expensive but worth it in my opinion.  I think cheaper than Stainless.

G'Luck

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on June 19, 2015 at 7:09am

Fairing is done after glassing, but before paint. Fairing putty is not transparent; if you want a bright finish don't fair the sides.

If a boat is painted with a high gloss single part alkyd like Interlux Brightsides or Pettit Easypoxy light sanding is recommended between coats. Light sanding and then buffing can be used to remove dust nibs, brush marks, and return the gloss to the paint. If the panel is not faired, high spots will sand down to the primer - or get so thin you can see through to the primer - while sanding out the low spots. Fairing levels the panel making the final paint steps easier.

It is not necessary on a varnished boat.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 22, 2015 at 4:20pm

Plywood purchase situation. Thanks for clearing up the fairing and different options I have. I stopped in at Rare Earth Hardwoods today to see what I could get in marine plywood. They have Okume in 1/4" and 3/8", out of 1/2" and arent going to re order any more. They have had it a long time because its priced higher than the mahogany which,

they are out of 1/4" and 1/2" and looking at 5+ weeks to get any more. Would like to be almost done with the boat in that amount of time.

My other choice is to get Menards "marine LIKE" fir plywood.

I really dont want to spend $250 to lam 4 sheets of 1/4" just for the bottom. Could I use the 3/8" Okume with thicker glass on the bottom? Opinions please......

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