Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Kurt Selisch on February 7, 2016 at 7:32am

It's a beauty Mike! Nice work.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 7, 2016 at 4:57pm

Thanks Kurt, its not all that, but I`m excited to have a drift boat for the first time, and a huge year for floating!!!

I kinda made the benches really hard to finish off. I drill all the holes for the piano hinge but only sunk a few screws just to mount the doors onto the frames. Ive gotta plug the screw holes on the top. So I`ll have to remove the hinges, plug the holes and sand and finish  those parts in place on the benches. Its gonna be hard to reinstall all the doors after I get a good finish on all the parts past all the dividers but maybe a long screwdriver and do them all by hand. Ive been using Dove soap (bar) on all the screws going into the white oak and the walnut as to not break any screws off. I need to order up some seat brackets from Cabelas (thanks Steve)

The frt bench worked out good, the side door can open all the way and I`ll sink a couple drink holders inside the compartment. Not sure what I`ll do for the rear bench, might have to cut them into the top of one of the bigger doors.

Still havent figured out what to do with the very rear bench. It doesnt need to have one right away, but I would like to get all the carpentry done. I`m thinking something hinged though. Ive been reading up on trailer builds, need to start planning that out real soon.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 7, 2016 at 5:22pm

You have come a long way for a guy with no plan! Great looking work.

rick

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 9, 2016 at 3:59pm

Haha, thanks Rick, youve been very supportive even with my non typical wannabe boat. Yep just a old guy with a vision (thats me), a few helpful words from a couple guys here in Mich.,and almost a years help from the "Wooden Boat People", which has been huge!!! This arctic climate here is not helping too much right now, its slowing my progress down getting this thing finished. I`ll keep pluckin away though :)

So I got some oarlocks today, and I`m a little disappointed, not what I thought I bought, but my fault as the description was really vague and I didnt ask questions. I guess they are bronze but the machined shafts almost look like aluminum (though I cant see like I used too either), 5/8" shafts (thought they would be 1/2") and the opening inside is about 2 5/8" which seems a little big? Maybe that is normal. I guess they will have to work at least for a while.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 9, 2016 at 4:28pm

If I cut these out of some scrap marine plywood and epoxy them, will they work out ok or should I really use some solid wood?

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on February 9, 2016 at 4:58pm

Most use solid wood

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 10, 2016 at 3:32pm

Yep, I used some solid cherry for the oar lock blocks.

Now the seat bench locks, in your message you said most use 1/4" plywood so thats cool, Ive got 3/8" scraps, so I`ll cut some more and hit them with some epoxy. Thanks for clearing that up Randy.....

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on February 9, 2016 at 4:58pm

Those are the correct oarlock Mike.  They are very common here in the West.

You can tune them if you want, meaning that the tops can have a larger or smaller opening by putting a long pipe over one end and leveraging the metal in or out.  I don't think you will have to on that set.  The only thing to watch out for is that the oar with wrapping is held inside the oarlock during a strong upward slam.  If the opening is too wide the oar wrap can spring the opening wider but not fully eject and then get wedged in the opening. 

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 9, 2016 at 6:42pm

Thanks Randy. I cut out that plywood pc, as it turned out I had to adjust the shape of the cutout so it will pivot on/off of the pipe, and shorten the height so it will clear the pipe before it hits the benchtop. I think I have a good working part now so I`ll use it for a pattern and make a set out of some solid wood. What a simple and great part to lock the seat benches in...and I saw it first right here on the site doing searches!!!! Good stuff

Thanks for the go ahead on the oarlocks, its tuff when you dont know what you are doing ;) What a fun way to learn though, from a great group of people. Dorf might be tutoring me to make a set of oars, (if he decides to come back from ice fishing next week) so I might have some size option on the shafts.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 9, 2016 at 8:31pm

They look fine. Don't forget that you are going to put sleeves or rope wraps on the oars shafts. Those loook just like many others I have seen.

Rick

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 14, 2016 at 7:38am

I really liked the seat brackets Steve used, went to Cabela`s website and the description was very vague (this seems to be common) but there were a couple comments and Q&A`s stating that they fit 6 1/4" swivels. Well the swivels on the plastic boat seats are 6 1/4" so I ordered a set. They got here and are actually for a 7" swivel. Cabela`s sells swivels that are 6 7/8" that wont fit too BTW. Turns out the old padded boat seats I have are 7" so with a little grinding to make them fit the brackets worked out good. Cabela`s is yet to post my comment with a couple pics about the true size of the part.

Just been working on the seat benches but am going to try to get to varnishing the inside of the boat...Made up a molding strip for the back of the knee lock board, so a few coats of varnish on the board and I can get that assembled for good. It will get screwed on, just in case I ever have to remove that knee board for repair

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 14, 2016 at 8:53am

Your work is immaculate, you must have been using that 1,000 grit sandpaper under that fine finish. Speaking of finish, what are you using and how are you applying it?

Rick

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