Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 13, 2016 at 3:38pm

Ya, I thought about just oiling them, but when I saw these offered, I liked the indexing idea. Its not that they cant get cut off either at any time. I ordered them with the donuts, cause Sawyer only uses FedX and the shipping cost more than the parts, figured I might as well get the grips and try them out. I have grips on my little jon boat oars, they feel ok.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 27, 2016 at 7:54pm

Working on the trailer a little. Dorf set me up with his trailer connection, they make the axle while you wait and do a great job. They drill a grease fitting into the axle so it comes up between the bearings instead of having to force grease in from the outside with bearing buddys. Best price by far too, was worth the 5 hr drive.

Still have alot to figure out. Need a roller for the back, need the winch stand in the frt. Need to set the boat on it and figure out support for the boat bottom, I`ll do all that before I mount the fenders in case I need to move the axle (I hope I dont)

Permalink Reply by Jayson Hayes on April 28, 2016 at 5:15am

Mike, I would bring that axle back another foot or so. You should have your axle just about centered within the two cross frames or you will whip that boat right off the trailer going down the road.

Permalink Reply by David Witton on April 28, 2016 at 2:08pm

Mike

Here are the measurements from my trailer - each dimension is back from the ball. 

front crossbar - 100"

axle - 122"

rear crossbar - 166"

roller - 170"

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 28, 2016 at 3:55pm

I`m real close to you David. Thanks, I had a feeling that was your only supports.

frt cross bar-100"

axle- 128

rear cross bar 170ish

Jayson I want to set the boat on there where a good bit of the boat will be forward of the axle vs some you see with 3-4` of the boat hanging off the rear. It might take some engineering of the boat supports though vs the boat sitting on those 2 cross pipes. I`ll test fit it on the trailer this weekend before I go any farther with the fenders and stuff.

Ive also got to figure out the hitch. The bottom of the coupler is at 19" off the floor with the trailer level. The top of my receiver on the old blazer is at 19"...I dont think Ive ever seen a straight hitch plug or just a 1" drop either....Not sure how thats gonna work out

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 1, 2016 at 7:12am

Turns out those frame rails will work out good with some little bunks on them. Wasnt sure with my odd rocker shape. So now I can press on with the trailer. Got the fenders welded in place. Need some more steel for the winch stand and the fender steps. Ive only got 5 more weeks to get this all done for our first annual Michigan Wood Boat show and float on June 11th.

I think I really like the side chine cap locator brackets on David W`s baker trailer too so I`m gonna try to make something up like that to hold the boat "steady as she goes!" (thats boat talk)

Meanwhile, I had this idea so I started working on my oar transporter system. My compartments will still open with the cherry blocks in place or they will come off easy with the wing nuts

Permalink Reply by David Witton on May 3, 2016 at 5:27am

Mike

Your trailer is looking good! If I could weld, I'd have saved some serious bucks.... A couple of things I like about mine are the steps installed fore and aft of the wheels - and of course a tie down point for the boat.

Permalink Reply by chris towles on May 2, 2016 at 11:43pm
Hey, that dierks side mount anchor arm you have there. Is that 2" angle it's welded to? Also does that mount come with holes pre drilled and if so what is the distance between holes and is it centered in regards to the arm? Or do you drill your own mount holes? I've been considering mabye getting one but I'd love to know some dimensions as I'll be doing gunwales and transom knees in the next week or two and would love to know if this thing will fit and if I need to go with a preset hole pattern.

I've built a nice grab handle into my transom top so I'd like to keep the center of the transom clear for access to that if possible, especially since this is a whitewater dory. However, we do a lot of cruising and fishing on the snake and having and anchor setup is kind of a must have around here. I figure the side mount might be the best of both worlds and might be easily removable. I have heard the "yaw" in the current is much worse with a side mount, but I usually don't like to anchor in current anyhow, so it's prob not as big an issue.
Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 3, 2016 at 2:39pm

That mount is 2"x2"x6-3/4". It comes with no mounting holes, you have to drill your own. It has one hole up underneath for the bolt that goes into the pulley (doesnt come with it). I went with that to leave my transom open for a motor

On the trailer, I messed up and didnt leave myself enough room for a long enough roller. Its about 1" narroew of the widest width of the boat bottom, but should still be ok to start the boat onto the trailer, then onto the carpeted bunk. I decided to cover the roller with bunk carpet so I used that indoor/outdoor supoer carpet tape that I used on the oar wraps, then hand stitched the carpet seam with some super heavy upholstery thread. Its really on there. Started working on the fender steps, hope to get a bunch more done tonight.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 3, 2016 at 5:31pm

Hey David, working on those steps, and some loops for tie downs are in the plan too!! I never said I could weld though ;)  Its not pretty, but it will work. Got the other rear step roughed in tonight, still have to add some tabs to rivit the aluminum diamond plate to. Got my pc of 5/8"bar stock for the roller and it doesnt want to slide into the bearing, arghh...I`ll have to get creative. I learned something from Dorf, all my tubes have been pre drilled during assembly for all the wiring, will make it really easy to pull all the wires.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 7, 2016 at 10:20pm

My goal for today was to get the winch stand made for the trailer and I fell a little short. Forgot before I could figure out the stand I needed to get the bow eye on the boat. Had to run and get some 5" stainless bolts and washers. This eye has 3/8" holes tapped 1" deep. The 5" bolts worked out perfect. I set it using Sikaflex bedding compound. Thats some wicked sticky hard to work with stuff but a awesome sealer.

This eye was suppose to go with the pointy end up, but I mounted it down and will use the smaller hole for a safety chain while towing going to the winch stand. I did get the 2 main bunk boards covered with carpet. I used a carpet staple gun with galv staples (still have to stitch the ends of the frt bunk) and bolted on just to use for fitting the boat on the trailer, then I`ll pull them back off to paint. I`m still gonna do the guides on the rear of the trailer and figure out how to make some side guides like David W`s baker trailer. The more I think about those more i like the idea of them keeping the boat centered on the trailer good.

Finished getting the steps framed in and added some tabs to rivet the steps on after paint. Got all the holes drilled for the side marker lights too. I was drilling and tapping (crazy idea) to mount those lights but after breaking the tap on the 3rd hole and working hard to get it out of the hole, I drilled to use bolts and nuts like I had planned on from the start.

This is as far as I got with the winch stand, but it took a while to cut the plate steel with a jigsaw and get all the holes drilled. Tomorrow I`ll weld it up and get on with it. I got 1/2" galv U bolts to mount it to the 3"x3" tongue. Picked up the rubber V for the bow but still need to figure out where I want it to hit.

Stopped in Harbor Freight last week and picked up a fold up crank wheel for the frt of the trailer, and a winch with steel cable on it, the price seemed good, even with 2nd thoughts that most of the stuff there is junk. Stopped by a trailer shop Fri and bought a Reese winch and strap, so I`ll return the HF winch tomorrow.

By the end of next week my goal is to have this trailer done, get it weighed and get the license plate for it.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 8, 2016 at 7:32pm

Got the winch stand made. Because of the angle I had to notch the top of the upright to get the bolt and nut on, so I cut a weep hole at the bottom

Added a nifty safety tow chain bracket

After seeing Davids side guides, I made these up that will keep the boat centered on the trailer. Still have to drill and tap to mount them.

Of course after I got some primer on the winch stand I remembered it needed a loop for the bow safety chain

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