Well I'm building a 17 54 baker drift boat. So far I've got a pallet of expensive ply wood and one scarf cut

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The real reason for this slow progress is that I have no idea what I'm doing.  Its funny how you start the next step of the build and tip toe your way through until you're completely comfortable with that process.  But by that time you're done with that step.  I'm shooting for bottom on by mid january, hopefully before I head to Mississippi and Arkansas on a duck killing mission

Thats kinda how it goes, the secret is while your working on one step trying to think about 2 or 3 steps ahead of where you are in the process. That way you have a idea of how the step you are doing will come into play during the next steps. Your well on your way though and its gonna be a nice boat.

When I assembled my Tatman boat I put together all the frames, drilled the limber holes. Then drilled, screwed, glued and fitted plugs. I also applied finish to all of them. When it came time to install them frames Tatman plans recommended that you first attach the stem, next place the middle frame before placing and screwing the transom in place. This allows you mark and place the remaining frames in order. What Greg Tatman didn't write was you can install frames in both the correct locations and incorrect locations. You can also put them in backwards.  What I also learned was you can sharpen a Catspaw tool, insert it between the errant frame and the plywood to shear off the silcon bronze nails.

If I ever build another framed drift boat I know what to avoid. Experience takes time to acquire. I figure that with all the experiences I had with building and finishing my boat I could have built four boats. Life gets in the way, I went back to college for two years while building my boat, did a variety of odd jobs and such. It always takes longer unless you have already made all the opportunities for new learning experiences!

There is more than one way to build a drift boat. If it would be helpful I can find the file that holds copies of the Tatman manual.

Rick N

I didnt want to commit to gluing the frames together right off the bat. I messed a few up anyway so I was glad to dry fit them all to make sure I had it correct.  Mikes plans suggest to do it your way or my way. It just seemed to make sense to me to take my time and make sure I had everything correct before setting everything in epoxy

Well I've got a problem that shouldn't be, either my transom is the wrong size or my bevels are wrong or both but this bend gets more dramatic with frame 1 in the correct station. I can scoot it an inch forward and everything stays the same. Debating on removing the transom and redoing it.  Just don't know if that is a big pain or not.  I'll get a photo of the how severe it is with frame 1 in place tomorrow.

I wouldnt tear that apart if that little space is what you are referring too. You can pack that with thickened epoxy. You can also get a big syringe and shoot it into the gap. If you cant live with that you could add a nice fillit with some epoxy mix over the pack in the end. Unless you were building a total show only boat, the fish wont care :)

Mike I have to disagree with you. If the foundation of your is off which can be checked by running a batten from the stern forward you will find a discrepancy that needs to be removed by either changing the rib width or the transom width but I'm betting that the rib/frame is too narrow.
I guess it's hard to tell in the photo but the side panels are recurving to meet the transom. It gets much more prominent when frame 1 is in place. The way I'd fix it is to make the transom narrower but I don't know what's involved with removing epoxy

That's what I was seeing in your photo. It appeared the side was curved the wrong direction between that frame and the transom. That would require excessive fairing to correct. I would fix it. It's hard to tell from the picture, but I tend to agree with you that correcting the transom is the answer. It looks like widening the frame would make the transom bevel off even more.

ahh, I was just looking at the transom and that small gap, not between the frame and transom. Ya that is messed up a little. Almost need to fair the side with a batten and rebuild the transom. That frame might need attention. A heat gun might really help trying to get it apart, but regardless it wont be easy. The good thing is the bottom is not on. worst case you might have to be 16`10 1/2" instead of 17`.

Possibly cut the transom 1/8" or less from the plywood, and clean up the plywood with a belt sander.

Heat. Heat gun will warm it up and you can pull it apart.

http://www.bronkalla.com/Fairing.html Check out this info.

Rick N

Yes, I can see the bend you are talking about in the first pic. First check the lofting to make sure that frame is indeed in the correct spot and correct dimensions. If it is correct according to the plans, then check the transom for correct dimensions. If you are still having issues it might be time to build a scale model out of 12 pack cases or poster board. That will show you any discrepancies and if correct will show u what the boat should look like. I like 1"=1' scale. Scale models will get close enough to see twisting in the panel

As for taking apart what I have. A bigger transom is better than one that's too small. Easy fix. Hit the joint with some heat from a heat gun and use a razor to cut the panels apart once the epoxy heats up and gets gummy. If you are going for a clear finish careful not to "roast" your panels in the process

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