Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
repair kit/resin - another mess
Shutting things down for the season.
I open my repair kit and again resin and hardener has leaked. I have a tall ammo box for the repair kit. I put always put resin and hardener in bottles and each goes into it's own zip lock. I have tried many bottles and every one has leaked. This time I tried nalgene and now they have leaked. Getting resin off stuff is almost impossible.
I have tried to leave head space in the bottles for expansion but it's not working. If the repair kit gets tipped over and the resin expands it gets out of the bottle. For long trips I take 1 liter of resin and 1/2 liter of hardener (RAKA brand).
Asking what others use for resin containers in the repair kit. Look like they also need to come out of the box after each trip. If the plastic bag fails the entire kit could become one tool blob.
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As for clean up. Alcohol and acetone will dissolve resin but when it evaporates the resin is still there. In the shop I get it off my hands by mixing a bit of saw dust and acetone together. Then hand cleaner get the rest.
Trying to get resin out of an ammo box it a total pain. The box just becomes permanently sticky.
I am thinking of a separate box for tools and some other solution for the epoxy.
Looking for suggestions on this one. I can't be alone on this battle front.
L
I open my repair kit and again resin and hardener has leaked. I have a tall ammo box for the repair kit. I put always put resin and hardener in bottles and each goes into it's own zip lock. I have tried many bottles and every one has leaked. This time I tried nalgene and now they have leaked. Getting resin off stuff is almost impossible.
I have tried to leave head space in the bottles for expansion but it's not working. If the repair kit gets tipped over and the resin expands it gets out of the bottle. For long trips I take 1 liter of resin and 1/2 liter of hardener (RAKA brand).
Asking what others use for resin containers in the repair kit. Look like they also need to come out of the box after each trip. If the plastic bag fails the entire kit could become one tool blob.
---------
As for clean up. Alcohol and acetone will dissolve resin but when it evaporates the resin is still there. In the shop I get it off my hands by mixing a bit of saw dust and acetone together. Then hand cleaner get the rest.
Trying to get resin out of an ammo box it a total pain. The box just becomes permanently sticky.
I am thinking of a separate box for tools and some other solution for the epoxy.
Looking for suggestions on this one. I can't be alone on this battle front.
L
Views: 124
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Tom Martin on
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Hi Larry, i just had two quarts West resin shipped to FLG from PHX. Both metal cans leaked a little, even with the inner metal cap seal. They were in a bonber plastic bag, so didn't leak out of that. I "assumed" i'd just put the quick drying stuff in my kit, the syringe type. Yes folks, what DO you DO? yours, tom
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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on
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For cleanup I like plain old white vinegar-cheap and it won't eat your brain cells like acetone.
I have not used these for storage but a real neat traveling mug I have been using might work. Made by Contigo ( from Cosco), SS thermos, with screw on lid of plastic that is dishwasher proof. It has a "hand operated" valve to let the liquid out. I can fill it up with boiling hot coffee and turn it upside down, knock it off the shop bench etc and it won't leak a drop. Holds about 1 pint- $20 for a pair of them. If they don't work you can still use them for their intended purpose.
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Permalink Reply by lhedrick on
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I saw those very mugs the other day and almost got a pair but, for coffee not resin. It seems the real problem is that the resin must expand and contract quite a bit. If the repair kit gets tipped over and the bottles are on their side pressure inside the bottle will force some liquid out. The same is true for many solvents. Open a can which you know had stuff in it last year and now it's empty. With each temperature swing the vapor pressure in the can goes up and down forcing out a small amount of solvent. The key is a pressure fitting cap. There was a time when nalgene made plastic fuel bottles but I can't find them any longer. I used them to hold 2 extra liters of gas on motor cycle trips. I wonder if the gasket on a SIG gas bottle would work. There must be some type of bottle used in labs for chemicals to deal with this issue.
On thing for sure, from now on the resins go into a separate box.
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Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on
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Leave the resin and hardener at home. That's for serious, permanent shop work. Get QuickPoxy for river repairs. It's a thick 2-part, but comes in paint-type cans. It goes bad too, but doesn't get all over everything. WEST etc is way too strong and hard to remove after the trip. All you need to do on the river is keep water from running into the boat through the hole. Duct tape will often suffice--if not, QuickPoxy will do it. The thing is--no matter how flimsy or how strong the repair is, if you hit again in the same place, you'll wreck again in the same place. So go quick and light. We've been using the QuickPoxy system for twenty-some years and I've not hear of a spill or leakage issue yet. Every few years you have to toss your old supplies when they go bad (if you've been lucky enough not to have used them up) but that's the price of doing business.
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Brad,
I don't know of QuickPoxy, is it a name brand? I always have thick high speed epoxy for fast repairs. Not very strong but it will close holes with a little glass cloth pressed into it. West system has 2 part putties. Is that the type of product you are referring to? I did a google search for QuickPoxy and most of the hits are for web server Proxy agent software.
What you say makes sense in the just keep water out is the most logical fix for a river repair. While I am an OK boater at the oars my real skill is in building things. With epoxy, glass and some plywood scrap I can fix anything
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Sorry--I've got brain rot and it's been a while since I looked at the label. I got it backwards:
Sea Goin POXY QUICK is the name. Fast Set Epoxy Putty 1394
But I would imagine any thick quick-setting putty/epoxy would be fine.
Another advantage of this stuff over WEST is that it is ugly enough that you're never tempted to leave the repair as "good enough" in the shop, so you're sure to get that stuff off quick and let that damaged area get good and dry before you attempt the final repair. Another deterrent to rot!
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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on
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1. tape your caps on. then put a plastic bag on the taped cap and retape.
2. take two 20oz or 1-litre pepsi bottles (or however big your reapir bottle needs to be) and cut them in half. put your bottle of resin in a bag, then put it in one half of a pepsi bottle. Clamshell the other half on and duct tape the hell out of it.
If you are careful, the duct tape can be resusable too.
Oh, and i fill my resin bottle only about halfway, then squeeze most of the air out of it before putting the cap back on. This seems to be key as it will allow the bottle to expand and not have to push air around.
never had a leaker.
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