Oarlocks angle

Is there a standard angle at the oarlocks we are trying to achieve with a drift boat. Most Mackenzie's I see have locks parallel with the side panel angle but rogue and briggs boats that have wider flare tend to angle the locks inward to compensate. My boat is a 17x54 approx 80" at the locks with 26" tall side panels at the locks. Looking at dimension specs of other 17x54 drift boats it seems my shape is right in the same ballpark. Will I need to tip my locks and if so how much angle am I looking for?

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Permalink Reply by Gopher Dan on July 16, 2014 at 9:29am

I have no idea of exact angles.  

I have a smaller boat and right now the angles of oar locks match the sides.  

However, the oar locks at this angle make it very difficult to lift the oars up over rocks safely.  I would shoot for more vertical if you can - keeping in mind the oar lock needs to fit down through the hole and protrude through the bottom of the block, and you need to put the safety pin in and not have it hit the boat side.  This limits how vertical you can go.

The angle and distance between the rails probably won't allow you to go totally vertical - but seems to me more vertical is better to allow you more freedom of movement when oaring.

Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on July 16, 2014 at 2:33pm

Chris, In my experience keeping your oarlocks parallel with the side of your boat (about 30 degrees) works well. One of my boats, a Don Hill 16x48 parallels the sides, the other boat, an 18x54, parallels the boat sides as well (about 34 degrees) but like Gopher Dan says, on the 18x54, it is hard to lift the oar tip out over the rocks. I am currently changing this by replacing the oarlock block with a more vertical mount.

Another problem that arises sometimes is that the oarlock / oar diameter you are using is not right, meaning, either the oarlock inner diameter is too small or the rope wrap on your oar is too thick, thus not creating enough wiggle room. To fix this, re-wrap your oar with smaller diameter wrap material or buy another oarlock that has a larger inner diameter that will accommodate shipping your oar higher up. A great place to find cheap / durable oarlocks is the Oregon Pattern & Foundry in Eugene, Oregon: http://www.oregonpattern.com/

Ask for the "Franks" oarlocks. They are not the prettiest ones in town, but they are strong and row real nice, and they will not break your bank.

Cheers, Robb Grubb

www.RiverTraining.net

Permalink Reply by Matthew Cronin on February 23, 2022 at 12:39pm

Hi Chris, I realize that I am replying to a 8 year old message, so hopefully you get this.  I am curious I too built a Don Hill 17' x 54" drift boat and have the same question regarding the oar lock angle.  I built my oar blocks parallel to the sides and gunnels, it seems okay but not an ideal angle.

What did you end up doing for your oar blocks?

 

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on February 23, 2022 at 1:28pm

Matthew, I ended up building my lock blocks about 20° in from the angle of the sides.  (Say if my sides were 57° from the floor then the locks ended up at 77°)

If you set your lock pins parallel to the sides, the locks will bind slightly especially on the recovery stroke.  IMHO perfect angle is perpendicular to the oar shaft when the blade is submerged normally.

Permalink Reply by Matthew Cronin on February 24, 2022 at 7:57am

Shawn, thanks for the reply... Yes, the oar locks do mind somewhat.  So, I would like to make the modification that you have described.  Can you tell me more how you did it?

1) Did you use the traditional or block location with them sandwiched between the gunnels then drilled out the oar lock hole/pins at an offset 20 degrees from the 90 degrees, so they would be drilled at 70 degrees?

OR

 2) Did you add an oar block in a different location, similar to the oar blocks I see on Brad Dimock’s Grand Canyon dories?

OR - something else?

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on February 24, 2022 at 8:59am

Hey Matthew, realize I should have included some photos.
Initially had the blocks drilled parallel to the side panels, and they bound on the return stroke.
But it gave me some insight to the angle I needed (~15-20°)

I couldn't bore them at that angle since the bottom of the lock shaft would have hit the side panel and left no room for a nut or pin...so I welded a steel stanchion to set the oarlock inside the inwale.


Same oarlock geometry/location as Dimock's...but more similar metal construction to Andy Hutchinson's or old OARS/GC Dories oarlock stanchions.

Permalink Reply by Matthew Cronin on February 26, 2022 at 5:15pm

Shawn, thank you for the reply.  You did an excellent job building those new oar blocks, any idea if these can be purchased.  I am okay at wood working but not welding.

MC

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