Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
GC Dory-Double Ender Build
Hello,
Started on a GC Dory from Andy H. plans (18x54) some time ago and decided to post a few images from the build. The plans were put in CAD and cut on a CNC router so there are puzzle joints on large panels. A few modifications from the original design include laminated bow and stern posts and laminated gunwales. It has been a fun build and I am currently fiddling with gutters and hatches. See how this works and I will post more images.
Dave
Views: 3866
- Attachments:
-
-
IMG_4085.JPG, 2.2 MB
-
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Dave S on
-
Filling in the chine, bow, and stern with 406 prior to applying 12 oz biax glass tape.
- Attachments:
-
Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on
-
Awesome awesome. That thing's gonna be a hoot!
One thing I wish I did (but didn't do) was to put my spreaders closer to the bow and stern. You'll end up with a nice, fair curve like a Mckenzie boat...but I wanted more of a Briggs curve and that upswept "scimitar" bow. Need spreaders at the "quarter points" and not the "third points" to get that beautiful tight-wide-tight Briggs curve like your big boat has--and that reflects the floor shape.
-
-
Hi Shawn. So true about spreading the front a little more. I tried a few spreaders at the bow to get that Briggs bulge but my rocker is so severe right now ( 10 inches bow and stern) and any alterations increases the rocker even more. The center flat spot sprung after removing those boards so I screwed the bottom to interior 2x4’s from the outside to flatten that area. After the footwell sides are taped in I will pull out those 2x4’s and glass the interior floor. That will leave me with a center flat section 47 inches wide and 33 inches long.
- Attachments:
-
-
Installed footwell sides and inner glass tape to the corners (12oz) and floor (17oz). Next step is to remove the 2x4’s and glass the remaining bulkhead seams and floor.
- Attachments:
-
-
Finished glassing the front bulkhead, bow floor, and bow. I am not installing bow or stern posts so one layer of 17 oz biax glass and two layers of 12 oz biax were applied as a substitute. Still have to glass on each side of the footwell and then flip over for bottom glassing.
- Attachments:
-
-
Sweet. What's your guess on finished weight?
I'll throw out 145#
-
-
Although it looks small, there is still a lot of boat there. I am guessing no less than 175 pounds. I am making molds for the fiberglass hatch gutters and bagging those, so that should save a little weight. Losing the bow and stern posts should also cut down a few pounds, but the 3/8 inch decks and bulkheads add up quickly. I would be really excited if it was around 150. More sanding ahead!
-
-
Aaah..didn't realize yours was 3/8. Mine is all 1/4" and came in at 153#.
While I did a good job with glass/tape, yours is cleaner yet, so assumed lighter esp without bow and stern posts.
-
-
I like the idea of 1/4 inch plywood for everything. If I build a smaller version, that would be my choice. A solo dory that could easily be put on a roof rack would be really sweet. Certainly possible with a bagged carbon fiber and Kevlar shell off of a mold.
I am also using laminated rails with no fasteners or bolts so that will save some weight too. The interior glass should be done by Friday and then ready for the first flip.
-
-
I'd argue that one could use 1/4" panels for the sides and bulkheads on even a big boat.
3/8" decks depending on how much you'll walk on them and how much space between framing supports. My 1/4" deck is a bit light on the larger spans..but the boat is small enough I don't walk on her decks.
1/4" is admittedly light for a floor.
It's definitely sweet to be able to easily lift her onto a raft or big dory for shuttling.
-
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
-
I like it! Amazing what modern technology has brought to wooden boat shop!
Rick
© 2024 Created by Randy Dersham.
Powered by
